Front brakes

mlines wrote: The ones I stock are 12.9mm

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I guess if everybody's using them for rebuilds they'll be fine then..

Alrighty I have taken off the drivers side. I realised the instructions from the how to guide are for non ABS, as I had the sensor to remove and that toothed disc in the way of the 4 bolts holding the backing plate on. I rounded TWO of them in the process and they are still stuck firm. Then I realised I don't even need to remove them since once everything else is off the whole thing slides off. Why is it in the how to??

Below are some photos with questions. An answer to them each would be greatly appreciated so I am clear as I proceed:


The hub. Do I need to do anything with the bits inside this, the seals or anything or just leave as is?



The kingpins and the hub bolts. I have marked the top one and cleaned them all up nicely. I assume as long as top is on top that's fine, is doesn't have to be a particular way around right?



The old bearings. The top one still rotated freely and had some nice coloured grease in. The bottom one was brown and gritty as I rotated it and stuck in a few places.




DO I NEED TO TAKE THIS APART OR JUST RE-PACK WITH THE WATERPROOF GREASE?




Inside of the big bit the wheel studs are on (I'm crap with terminology). Anything need to be done here?




This is one of the two backing plate bolts I rounded off. How the hell can I undo them now and even more pressing, DO I EVEN NEED TO?




Thanks in advance!

If I remember they only go in one way as the bolt holes are staggered. There are spanners called metrinch which are designed to grip the rounded heads like those. One of the combination spanners will do as you can not get a socket at it. There are also wrenches you can use if the access is good but that looks tight and so a ring spanner is the boy. You could try using a bluntish chisel and a hammer on the head of the bolt to get it started if you do not want to buy the metrinch spanner, but you will need to get some new bolts. Probably will never need to remove them though.
Nothing needs to be done to the hub, just repack with waterproof grease an nothing for the last too.

The kingpin bolt holes line up either way so I suppose it doesn't matter (I do have the top kingpin on the top btw, I'm talking about whether the top kingpin needs to be one way around or not)


I have prepared both calipers and one side for the kingpins:





Some questions:

1. The toothed rotor for the ABS sensor BLOCKS the backing plate bolts from coming out. They screw out but then hit into the rotor so there is NO WAY to get them off. I'll just tighten the two I loosened and didn't round off back in since they don't even need to come out anyway,but is there a correct torque for these bolts?

2. The how-to says to fill the knuckle with 100ml of grease. Do I just smear this evenly around all of the inside? Or on the round outer edge of the CV joint?

3. Should I run a bead of copper silicone around the flange of the knuckle where it meets the swivel, and also some on the flange of the hub?

4. On the calipers where the pins slide in, does the surface where the rubber grommets meet the caliper body have to be completely smooth and/or paint free? I mean these areas:

It is good practice to replace as found so I would fit as found.
2. Work the grease into the joint as far as possible and the rest in the cavity I would have thought. I did.
1 Torque to the recommended standard for that size bolt or as tight as you can with a ring spanner.
3.I did not but if you like then do it/
4.I would think it makes no difference..

I've replaced the driveshaft (packed with blue grease), put in the new rings, oil seal and bearings with copper grease, smeared the inside of the knuckle with just over 100ml of the blue waterproof grease, put the knuckle over the hub and slotted in the kingpins for now just to seal everything. I havn't missed anything so far right?