Front brakes

Well I had a look at my front brakes. Not sure if I should change the discs or not. The pads have done about 30000 miles, the discs look from factory to me. Judging from the photos should I put new discs and pads on, and what about calipers?

Discs and pads and free your calliper sliders up or get new ones

Discs are well worn from the photo due lip near the hub centre. As previous you need new discs and pads! With the pads out and using a bit of caution you could with help press the brake pedal and allow the pistons to move out a bit more then push them back into the caliper as they will have to be reset to allow the new pads to fit. You could do that a few times to ensure they both are free to move and as j999pre suggested ensure the sliders are not seized.

Hmm ok. Can i reuse the calipers or do they look quite corroded too? If i get new ones i supppse i should get new brake hoses to them too and then bleed the brakes?

As long as the pistons are not leaking and are not seized they should be OK. The sliders are essential for the caliper to work correctly, they ensure each pad is applied equally and so need to be tip top. Overhaul kits are available from BigJimny - www.bigjimny.com/store/service-items-and...ng/clutch-parts.html or www.bigred.co.uk or www.brakeparts.co.uk They do recon calipers and new hoses if you so wish. Just remember that if you remove the caliper from the hub and are not removing it from the car ensure you do not let it hang from the hose. Tie it up to take the weight. Also ensure that the bleed nipple is going to undo, so whilst it is still mounted just c5rack it open carefully using a good ring spanner or socket. Wire brush it first and give it a squirt of easing oil like wd40.

emu88 wrote: Hmm ok. Can i reuse the calipers or do they look quite corroded too? If i get new ones i supppse i should get new brake hoses to them too and then bleed the brakes?

The "new" callipers that are affordable are reconditioned ones: they were as rusty as yours, but have been cleaned up and given a lick of paint, along with new seals.

You could replace the seals, but if you can push the pistons back with your thumbs (squeeze the calliperevenly) they are fine. If you need a "G" clamp to force the piston back in then you need new seals. Corrosion forms in the seal groove, and squashes the seal onto the piston, and jams it. You can take the seal out, clean out the groove and refit it, but this will cause the car to explode in a fireball (I've no idea why, what is different about a seal that has been out and put back to a new one ) so you shouldn't do it.

Oh, and use a release oil like GT-85, Plusgas or diesel. WD-40 is to spray on your spanners in the drawer to hope that they don't go rusty (Duck oil is better, JL69 is even better)