Front brakes

Ok, thanks Busta.

mickt wrote: Got what? The compensator or the bleed nipples?

The bleed nipples, 2 for front, one for back

Ok. Why I was asking was that especially the rear one it could be so badly corroded in because of where it is it can be a nightmare to get out successfully. Care is needed on making sure the spanner (preferably a ring or better a socket) is a good fit. With the corrosion the size can be smaller than the original dimension so rounding off is a problem. I have a specific type of wrench I use on brake unions and the like that has never failed even if the flats has rounded off and if you want I will take a photo of it.

mickt wrote: Ok. Why I was asking was that especially the rear one it could be so badly corroded in because of where it is it can be a nightmare to get out successfully. Care is needed on making sure the spanner (preferably a ring or better a socket) is a good fit. With the corrosion the size can be smaller than the original dimension so rounding off is a problem. I have a specific type of wrench I use on brake unions and the like that has never failed even if the flats has rounded off and if you want I will take a photo of it.

If I run into a problem there I will ask you then! Corrosion on my car is largely at a minimum overall though luckily, so I may be lucky in getting the rear valve off.

I have removed the drivers side caliper and taken it to bits and cleaned it up. From what I can tell the piston seems fine, no corrosion just a bit at the lip. One of the two tubes however that the long bolts run through is quite corroded on the end where the rubber sits (last pic), do I need to get 2 new ones of these are are they fine to re-use?

If all is ok, I'm going to kurust the caliper, give everything one last clean, paint the caliper and then assemble it all with new rubbers and red grease.

I'd change it, corrosion here is what causes the brakes to stick on, and it will only get worse, if you buy a pair you will have one for the other side.

Make sure you clean the seal groove out thoroughly, and take extra care fitting the dust boot.
According to the book, there is a knack to fitting it, it pushes all the way down the piston, and overhangs it, then you slip the flange into the retaining groove, and when you push the piston home, it expands the boot into the groove, and keeps it in place.

I thought there was a wire clip holding it in the bottom of am open bore, as there seems to be wire clips in the service kit.....

The pins certainly need replacing as they have started to corrode. It is imperative that these are free to move as they allow the one piston to allow both pads to operate. If seized or sticking then only the pad nearest the piston will work efficiently.
I take it the pictures of the piston are before and after cleaning. The after cleaning one is showing signs of corrosion in the seal groove!

That is just the dust seal groove, it could be many years before the corrosion reaches the working face.
The fluid seal is in the calliper, and should never get near that groove.