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mickt wrote: You mentioned drivers side twice! But I reckon they are ripe for recon IMHO.
Oops :laugh:
Alrighty then! I'll replace the wheels, drain the radiator and remove it since I'll change the belts too. Then I'll jack car back up, remove wheels and calipers, recondition them, change kingpins, put new discs on, put on new pads, replace 2 front brake hoses and bleed valves on calipers, replace calipers, torque everything, replace wheels, lower car, change alternator and power steering belts (and tensioner bearing?), replace radiator, fill up, then bleed all the brakes. Done!
And a good days work to. Don't forget to bleed the rear brakes too. There is a nipple on the compensator mounted above the axle. It will be well rusty though!!
Be careful pressing the brake when the caliper isn't over the pads! The pistons will come all the way out and you'll get a nasty mess. As the pads wear, the master cylinder lets more fluid into the system so the piston automatically adjusts for pad wear. You won't get full piston movement from one press of the pedal- it needs a few presses, letting a little more fluid in each time. There is no way they wouldn't still work when the pads are completely worn unless you've run out of fluid.
Everything looks pretty much in order. Have you tried carefully lifting a piston seal to check for corrosion underneath? That, the seal itself and the sliders are the only bits that matter on the caliper. Rust anywhere outside the seals is common and not a problem.
I've never heard the 'pushing the pistons back by hand' method as a measure of anything. I've always used a tool.
No need to drain the coolant and remove the radiator to change the belts, although it is a little tight. Loosening the top two radiator bolts gives you a couple of centimetres more room, making it a little easier.
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