What is tapping into a switched circuit?

After doing some more digging and taking suggestions from here, it seems my best option would be to tap into the ciggy lighter 12v live for my live on switch. Im going to use a WAGO connector to slice into it. Seems like my best option so far.

Just reading this. You are installing a which, that to my mind needs to have an entirely separate and dedicated switch circuit in order to keep it isolated and only energised on demand. I would therefore suggest that you run a small capacity line via a fuse direct from the battery to a suitable location within the cabin and use it to trigger the relay that controls the winch.

Lambert wrote: Just reading this. You are installing a which, that to my mind needs to have an entirely separate and dedicated switch circuit in order to keep it isolated and only energised on demand. I would therefore suggest that you run a small capacity line via a fuse direct from the battery to a suitable location within the cabin and use it to trigger the relay that controls the winch.

Im not sure if your advice is based on older winch designs. The axon does things very differently, but i may be wrong mate. If you have a few spare mins, check this install out. From what i can tell, all the gubbins has been thought of aleeady.


From warn axon manual:. Motactor (motor + digital contactor) dramatically simplifies winch installation —reducing install time by up to 50%

Andy, does the manual for the winch you've purchased specify an operating power? I.e operational wattage/amp draw?

When planning any electrical work, you should always work backwards from the appliance.

1. You need to establish the size of cable required to feed your appliance/equipment. You'll need to take the Winches maximum output (in watts preferably). Then divide this by the vehicle voltage. So lets say your winch draws 600w as an example. 600/12v = 50amps.

2. Now that you've established your imaginary winch pulls 50amps, you need to select an appropriate gauge cable. Cable size is defined by mm2 (Conductor surface area) this also translates into 'AWG'. You won't need to consider voltage drop, because you'll be running such a short length of cable. Usually any decent electrical appliance specifies a recommended cable gauge to be used for the supply.

Try this online calculator which will help you achieve the above if not.
topwiretraveller.com/sizing-automotive-w...ble-size-calculator-

3. You then need to select a suitable automotive fuse (the inline sort will probably be most suitable). A common misconception in the electrical world is that the fuse protects the device, this is incorrect. A fuse indirectly offers some protection to a device, but its primary intent is to protect the electrical conductor supplying that device. So in this example scenario, your imaginary winch requires a 50amp feed, you've run 50amp rated cable, you'll need to fuse the supply with a 50amp fuse.

I agree with Lambert - For ease of installation, I would take a fused feed directly from the battery (fuse needs to be as close to the battery as possible). I would switch that feed and preferably situate the switch inside the car somewhere, glovebox, dash etc. You could situate the switch in the engine bay somewhere for ease, but that would be pretty impractical.

Taking a feed from an ignition live isn't essential. In reality your winch is unlikely to draw much power if any when not in use, but let's face it. You'll only want to switch the winch on when it's needed. Why would you need it to be fed from the ignition supply? Also look at it this way, if you're really up s**t creek and your engine isn't running, you'll still be able to operate your winch for a short period of time. Wouldn't be able to do that if your winch was fed from an ignition live.

+1 for the WAGO's, they're utterly brilliant. WAGO 221's are my personal favourite and are suitable for cables ranging from 0.4 - 4.0mm2 rated at 32amps. (I think they do a 6mm2 version too rated at 40amp). They probably won't be required for a simple installation as discussed above though. You'll just need a selection of crimp connectors.

Just quickly mate. All wires come with the winch and are right size etc for the winch power

Wow great info, thanks mate!!

From what i understand, a live switch wore is simply to activate the winch in a standby on mode only when the ignition is switched on. Otherwise someone with a warn remote could hook into my bumper mounted connector and simply spool out my rope and operate the winch without me being there. If it takes the switch from a live ciggie power 12v, then only the turn of my key will activate the winch.

Andy, you replied before I'd sent that last message so most of that has been answered now!

That kit looks comprehensive - I understand your requirement now.

- The winch in that video takes a feed for the winch motor directly from the battery. Thats what the 16AWG+ black and white cable was for.

- It seems that the winch remote, control switch and isolating switch require a seperate 12v ignition feed for operation. Those items will draw so little current, tapping into the 10amp Cigarette lighter feed would be absolutely fine. (Providing you've got enough cable to get there)

3 way WAGO 221 will be your best friend