What is tapping into a switched circuit?

Taking on board your suggestions, ive devised this set up.

Lambert wrote: Andy I stand by my original comment, having a winch no matter how cleverly wired patched into an existing ignition live is less desirable than having it on it's own dedicated and separate circuit. If not there is a risk however small that something shorts out and does damage that could be avoided by it being isolated and manually energised, a winch doesn't need to be in standby constantly on a daily driver car. When you are going to need a winch you are going to know it in advance and can turn it on then. I'm not meaning to switch the big feed cables I simply mean to switch on and off the electronic control system instead of it being fired by the ignition tumbler every time you get in the car.

The winch won’t be in standby mode - the 12v ignition supply feeds the remote switch and controller only. It provides no power to the winch itself. The winch will remain 100% isolated. The only thing being powered up on the daily will be the remote switch and controller. I don’t see the problem at all - it’s not a conventional design granted. It’s in essence a switch that would otherwise be on the winch itself, extended to the cab. Tried and tested by Warn engineers.
There’s no risk of short if the wiring is carried out correctly. Again you’ll have no issue Andy if you use WAGO 221’s, can’t go wrong buddy. A small cable tie around the levers afterwards will prevent it from being disturbed in the future.

Whatever. It's not my car. I wouldn't patch into another system with anything associated with a winch when it is so easy to go straight to the battery for a feed, especially on a car still in warranty. Just my opinion.

Appreciate all tour input and expertise on this matter.

My current plan is to follow Warn installation instructions. Every install i have researched so far has followed the warn install guidance to the letter, and im not going to be the guy that does it differently. From what ive researched every failsafe mechanism is contained inside the unit, food enough for me.

Going to do the warn suggestion and tap into the 12v ciggarette port with WAGO 221 without switch, as clearly its not needed.

Thanks again for everones input.
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Andy, it might be worth having a look at the connection on the back of the Ciggy lighter. If it's a standard 8-10mm spade bit, a less intrusive method of Joining your remote live would be to remove the factory spade crimp, twist both live tails together and crimp on a new spade connector. No splicing/Wago required

DAGZOOK wrote: Andy, it might be worth having a look at the connection on the back of the Ciggy lighter. If it's a standard 8-10mm spade bit, a less intrusive method of Joining your remote live would be to remove the factory spade crimp, twist both live tails together and crimp on a new spade connector. No splicing/Wago required

Great idea! Gonna go have a butchers in a vit.

Thabks for your help everyone and thabk you Dagzook:)