oily leak from front nearside - advice requested

Have a look here then you can decide

www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php/Kingpin_Bearing_Change

Hi There,
Worn/distorted oil seal in end of axle case, the oil in Jimny's is limited to the axle casing unlike Land Rovers that have oil in the hubs, Jimny's hubs should be dry. The problem is apparently caused by worn king pin bearings allowing the axle to move about in the seal and distort/wear it, this is usually accompanied by wheel wobble. I have just completed this repair, it took just over 4 hours, but quite a bit of pre freeing of bolts etch. I have only owned my Jimny for 4 months, and learned all this already! Watch the vidoe "replace king pin bearings on the forum" fantastic help!
tuppies friend

Have ordered the new king pin bearings so will let you know when I have completed the work.
Have watched the video and now feel that it is within my capabilities - we shall see.

Hello again,
Just a couple of points to add, when doing the king pins, ABS sensor is very delicate, plenty of WD40 and lever it gently and EVENLY from the back, bolt sheered on mine, once the knuckle is off, the bolt can be drilled out (it's only mild steel) then use a stainless nut, bolt and spring washer to secure. The ABS sensor cylinder has a bulge on one side this should correspond with the cut out in the steel clip, all will be apparent on that once it's extracted.
I found it best to use the back of the 1" socket to drive out the bearing shells, mine at least are slightly rounded at the front(business end). but square at the back.
I found quite a bit of rust on the swivel "ball" I rubbed this off with 240 grit wet and dry, then applied a rust killer. Rust left on the ball will just wear the seal again.
Let out some but not necessarily all the oil from the diff before you begin, so you will need new oil to top up.
The circlip, is a nuisance, it has two different sized holes, I had to adapt my pliers to fit.
I did't want to put the circlip back before a test for free turning of the knuckle, but then the shaft can move in and out, causing "locking" as the "CV" isn't in line with the king pins, so when you test, either put the circlip back, make a temporary circlip (piece of steel with a slot) or just make sure the shaft is in the right place when you do the check. don't forget to put back the weird shaped washer before replacing the circlip.
Holding the bottom bearing in place is tricky, stick it in with plenty of the sticky waterproof grease, this gives you about 30 secs before it falls out, make sure you have some clean news paper under it, for the couple of time it does fall out, or you will have grit in it.
I took Martin Lines advise and bought the shim set, and just added the thinnest shim to the top bearing, seems to work fine.
tuppiesfriend

Thanks for the additional information. Having read the advice so far, it is suggested that the seal does not necessarily need replacing.

I suppose I will only find out whether it needs replacing after I have dismantled everything or should I just replace it anyway?

Hi Slippy,
If you mean the axle case oil seal, I would replace it anyway, you are 95% there when you do the king pins, it's not expensive, and it's easy to get out, and fit the new one, I levered the old one out with a large screw driver, with access through one of the king pin holes. If you mean the swivel seal, definitely replace it, it's supposed to be a service item, I don't think mine had ever been changed, and the least bit of rust will have ruined it, allowing water in, and consequently rusting the king pin bearings.
tuppies friend