tow bar

With the wiring, go to the top of the page. Click on 'Website Home', then 'Information', then 'How to'.

Hope this helps.

In my opinion you need to get that exhaust fitted correctly before you do anything else !!
It will rattle and wear against the towbar until something gives and the paint on towbars is not thick.
It's definately not hanging right and I think it needs to be pushed forward on the pipe as it seems a bit far back?
You could see if you can loosen the clamp but it'll be rusted well.
If you can find something to tie it up higher (something that won't melt) eg bare wire then just take it to your local exhaust place and see what they say.
If you thought getting the bumper off was a struggle then be prepared for worse if you attempt the exhaust yourself.
I always take mine to an exhaust place as I find that they are not much more than ebay prices and they get to do the swearing :laugh:

It sounds like something has either broken or it has not been fitted correctly in the first place but due to heat/age exhausts will sag over time if not fitted correctly.
From the pic I have just seen the box doesn't look very old so the clamp may loosen but use WD40 etc. and leave to soak in.

Here's picture I took from under my Jim a couple of minutes ago. The hangers are definitely different. I agree with gilburton.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationYour box should have 2 hangers like this??

Yes, the hangers are like that. In case anyone else considers doing this, I just popped to National Tyres as its only a couple of miles away, and after getting it up on the ramps he advised me there was nothing he could do. He suspects the exhaust is not a suzuki original, and thus the rear box may be a bit larger, and the way it is constructed meant he could not dismantle and put it back any differently. I have a put a rubber O ring under the part that is resting to prevent banging. As its the end box he reckons it wont get hot enough to melt it. When I need a new box, I`ll probably need to source a Suzuki part. I dont know what you guys think of this diagnosis, but when under the car I could see what he meant about being unable to help. Driving there I couldnt hear it rattling, but it is quite tight.
Regarding the wiring Fozzie, in that article in the how to section, he makes no mention of the earth wire? Als, is it absolutely necessary to go to the loom under the trim or can you not just splice into wires in light assemblies?
I have to say I am extremely grateful for all the help and guidance I have received

The reason they fit flexible rubber hangers is to allow the exhaust to flex around as it does just that.
If it's not allowed to move chances are eventually the exhaust will shear somewhere with stress.

There are 2 things you could do buy a middle pipe and silencer and get it fitted or DIY .
The other thing is to have a look and see if you can shorten or modify the middle pipe.
It's nothing special just a pipe that possibly you could cut and get a sleeve to rejoin it by either welding or clamping.
It should cost around £60-£70 to replace the exhaust and pipe.

No doubt I'm going to get shot down here but in the old days we did exactly that we broke in to the wiring at the rear lights or across the boot.
The one advantage of getting at the loom by removing the side panel is that ALL the wires are together in one place.
You'll have to find the reverse/fog lamp wires either in the boot or under the n/side upper lens. I have done it that way but it's tight.
If you remove the light lenses in the bumper you can then push the trailer wires through the grommets in to the back of the bumper between the lense and bumper where it will get some protection.
You can cable tie these wires to the towbar and or the existing wires which run behind the bumper.
You might have to extend the trailer wires separately to reach though.