Trailmaster vs. Black Raptor

Some form of castor correction is a good idea. Steering dampers don't fix anything, they just mask existing issues.

Grima wrote: In other kits brackets for lowering the front brace member are fitted so there is no need to add extra bump stops on the front axel. Therefore losing no articulation.

I think you are mis-understanding the layout of the axle, cross-member and bump stops.

The prop sits above the cross member. Therefore if the axle drops too much then the prop hits the cross member.. the cross member relocation brackets lower the cross member ( reducing ground clearance - see other argument LOL! ) which allows longer (above 50mm ) springs ie a greater lift. The bump stops stop the axle going up, so are not related to the cross member.

Trailmaster lifts tend to be slightly conservative. A 50mm lift comes out around 45mm. Other kits come out generous, I have seen 50mm kits based on the raptor style springs come out at 60-70mm. Indeed I fitted one to a Gen3 once and it was easily 3 inches. This could be why they have to supply drop brackets, to compensate for long springs. Some spring suppliers simply add 50mm to spring height to achieve 50mm lift instead of designing the spring, this seems to create generous length springs.

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Hi I hope you're all well.

Unfortunately - based on my personal experience - I do not recommend Trailmaster lift kit. I have a 50mm comfort kit since 2017. First issue was it did not cure the Jimny lean at all. Together with a 38mm spacer above the OSF spring it still leaves 20mm height difference at the rear (OS is lower). Second issue was after 3000 miles drive the off-side rear shock started leaking oil. Had to be replaced. Third issue is the rust! Shocks were already a little bit rusty at the bottom-end when got delivered. After three years this got worse and by now also all four springs rusted from inside-out, resulting flaking power coating. To save my 'investment' I had to take them out, removed all rust and repainted them. No sagging noticed yet. I'd expected better rust prevention to be honest and a little bit more smart engineering to address Jimny lean. Perhaps they made in China as everything else nowadays? Definiately not a long lasting product in my opinion.

How difficult is it to replace the caster bushings..? Do you need a press or..?

Ideally you need a press to remove the OE bushings. That being said I poly bushed my BMW Z3 and to remove the old bushings, the rubber part of the bush was cut out using an oscillating multi tool, then the race was slotted using a hacksaw and the old bush then just taps out.

The above method only works if you're installing poly bushes, because they are a super easy DIY install, no special tools required!

DAGZOOK wrote: Ideally you need a press to remove the OE bushings. That being said I poly bushed my BMW Z3 and to remove the old bushings, the rubber part of the bush was cut out using an oscillating multi tool, then the race was slotted using a hacksaw and the old bush then just taps out.

The above method only works if you're installing poly bushes, because they are a super easy DIY install, no special tools required!

That is interesting to read as I got these CORRECTION BUSHES with my lift kit and I was wondering if screwed rod, nut bolts and spacers would be enough to get them in. Just a quick squeeze through the bag didn't feel like any give in them.