Winch switch controls

Wireless signals cant be 100% trusted like a physical wired connect can be...

I agree said connection need to be wired in by someone that know what they are doing but wireless signals can become disturbed especially around a signal rich environment like a winch challenge for example... where poorly designed and cheap wireless system can end up picking up signals from another remote which is close by

And in the event of a emergency the cut off may not be at hand until its too late... With the above wired plate the cut off is 10mm away from the IN & OUT control where wireless remotes promote the operator being up to 5 odd meters away from the winching vehicles meaning its a good 1 minute sprint towards the hazard before you can take control

If you buy a good quality remote then the chances are you should be in good hands but in my eyes its a false sense of security i would rather build a winch system which is fool proof... so that anyone can take the controls and instantly know what to do and more importantly how to cut it off if shit hits the fan

first and foremost the isolator should be as near to the battery as possible because when your running 75-150mm2 cable around the vehicle especially in a winch challenge environment where things are overstressed and strained physically.. the resultant problem if that wire goes to ground is going to be at best costly, at worst life taking!

I agree there is nothing better than hard wired but there are risks with every approach and whatever the solution they need to be understood.. for a standard vehicle that needs to use a winch occasionally I would have no hesitation in using a remote.. for a challenge truck? its motorsport and there are inherent risks anyway so make your own judgement.

I wouldn't worry about using a remote control winch too much but I would strongly advise you fit a battery isolater switch within easy reach just in case the main solenoids stick, I've seen this happen and believe me it's scary.

Keep all wiring runs as short as you can, make sure it's run through grommets where necessary, make sure it's all well secured and can't drop on the exhaust or rub anywhere.
The in/out switch you want to use could be wired through an inline fuse a 10amp would probably do it as its only operating the solenoids.

I have one of those remote units but not happy with its quality. Hence why I am putting in a panel in the cab. I have just ordered the bits.

Small sheet of aluminium
On off toggle switch with missile style flip cover
Red led indicator for a visual
A winch specific rocker switch momentum on-off-momentum on.
But good idea about the in line fuses just in case. Will post a pic when done planning to mount it just behind the gear stick in the useless mould/tray

I also have a Lucas style cut off switch for the power of the winch that came with the goodwinch kit. David there said to put to close as poss to the battery but if you did have to cut it in an emergency surely that would take ages to pop the bonnet run round open in it and then switch it ?

It's more important that you can kill the power quickly if you need too so I would fit the isolater on the transmission tunnel next to the gear stick.
The last thing you want too do if your winch is out of control is run round the front and pop the bonnet.

Well this is exactly what i thought but goodwinch said you should bring high voltage cable into the cab for safety reasons. is that why you are suggesting the transmission tunnel ? would the gearbox have to come out or do you think there would be enough room to run the cables and do the fittings etc ?

RichiesJimny wrote: It's more important that you can kill the power quickly if you need too so I would fit the isolater on the transmission tunnel next to the gear stick.
The last thing you want too do if your winch is out of control is run round the front and pop the bonnet.