Winch switch controls

jimnydms wrote: Well this is exactly what i thought but goodwinch said you should bring high voltage cable into the cab for safety reasons. is that why you are suggesting the transmission tunnel ? would the gearbox have to come out or do you think there would be enough room to run the cables and do the fittings etc ?

RichiesJimny wrote: It's more important that you can kill the power quickly if you need too so I would fit the isolater on the transmission tunnel next to the gear stick.
The last thing you want too do if your winch is out of control is run round the front and pop the bonnet.

i wouldnt run it underneath the car itself, could catch a prop/ rock or melt on the exhaust leaving bare wire that pottentially running high amps

jimnydms wrote: I have one of those remote units but not happy with its quality. Hence why I am putting in a panel in the cab. I have just ordered the bits.

Small sheet of aluminium
On off toggle switch with missile style flip cover
Red led indicator for a visual
A winch specific rocker switch momentum on-off-momentum on.
But good idea about the in line fuses just in case. Will post a pic when done planning to mount it just behind the gear stick in the useless mould/tray

I also have a Lucas style cut off switch for the power of the winch that came with the goodwinch kit. David there said to put to close as poss to the battery but if you did have to cut it in an emergency surely that would take ages to pop the bonnet run round open in it and then switch it ?

Putting a fuse is a bit waste of money. Instead spend the money on a good isolator switch. A solenoid, with a switch on the dashboard works great. Like this perhaps www.red-winches.com/products/albright-wi...tor-12v-solenoid/62/

Also, when putting a switch in the dashboard for winching, also install a switch outside, near the winch. That way you can also operate the wínch outside. Nice thing if the rope is jammed and your all alone

jimnydms wrote: Well this is exactly what i thought but goodwinch said you should bring high voltage cable into the cab for safety reasons. is that why you are suggesting the transmission tunnel ? would the gearbox have to come out or do you think there would be enough room to run the cables and do the fittings etc ?

RichiesJimny wrote: It's more important that you can kill the power quickly if you need too so I would fit the isolater on the transmission tunnel next to the gear stick.
The last thing you want too do if your winch is out of control is run round the front and pop the bonnet.

Its not the Volts its the Amps and if you short a winch positive cable to chassis and you've created a welder.. fuses are no point as you would need minimum of 150A rating just so the winch could do normal stuff.. if you factor in that a stall current could be significantly higher you would be changing fuses quite often and probably when you need your winch the most!

I would wire up as follows:

Battery - isolator within inches - starter solenoid at just before the power goes into the winch solenoid pack - low voltage/amperage circuit to switches in the cab and near the winch used to turn on or off the winch. I'd personally have no issue with using a coded remote and most are but if you prefer have and in/out rocker local to where you need it or alternatively use the standard wired remote that came with the winch and just run it through the drivers window when 'you expect you will need it'

jimnydms wrote: Well this is exactly what i thought but goodwinch said you should bring high voltage cable into the cab for safety reasons. is that why you are suggesting the transmission tunnel ? would the gearbox have to come out or do you think there would be enough room to run the cables and do the fittings etc ?

RichiesJimny wrote: It's more important that you can kill the power quickly if you need too so I would fit the isolater on the transmission tunnel next to the gear stick.
The last thing you want too do if your winch is out of control is run round the front and pop the bonnet.

Run your cables through the bulk head there's a large grommet on the passenger side and mount the isolator on a mounting bracket inside the car.
If you pick up a live for the in/out switch inside the car and fit an inline fuse you can run some twin core cable to the winch to operate the solenoids. You will have two large battery cables running through the bulkhead but aslong as they are installed correctly they won't short out.
It may be possible to isolate the negative side of the winch that way your extending the negative side so there's less risk of it shorting out.
I've always wire the isolators on rally cars etc to the negative side of the battery so I'm not extending a heavy duty unfused live cable.

Tom DK and Yellowstreak sounds like your on similar wave lengths. I like the idea if the Albright solenoid. So this would effectively replace the isolator switch or would you keep both. If you keep both what would be the point of the isolator switch? Thanks for all help

Or do you have the Albright solenoid and manual isolator switch but can just always leave the isolator on as the power will be off to the winch via the Albright solenoid switch ?