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paul2u wrote:

ahh thanx for that apart from driving it 300 miles home when i bought it , i tried the low box out and it didn't seem to work whilst the high box worked ok
 

If you were used to the stick selection you might want to check out the wiki article on the differences in operation between stick and push buttons
www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php/4WD...ion_system_operation

I remember my Gen3 would always go in and out of 4WD but would sometimes refuse 4WD-L, I think it was something to do with the clutch been pressed in, possibly whilst in gear.  Certainly, at a complete stop (possibly hand brake on) and in neutral it seemed to go in and out of 4WD-L.

I am not sure what the indicator lights tell you when trying 4WD-L, perhaps you could check them against the fault finding guide here
www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php/4WD..._failure_diagnostics

I would have thought that a gearbox and transfer box change is quite a bit of work?

Robin

Hi,

See thie wiki article on how the 4WD system works.

www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php/4WD...ion_system_operation

Quick question, do you have a Push buttons or a lever to engage 4WD, the operation is slightly different.

I assume you have push buttons, when you select 4WD the controller moves the transfer box in to 4WD, once complete the green light starts flashing whilst the vac hubs are engaged. If the vac hubs engage and you get a vacuum detected the green light stays solid.

If the transfer box doesn't engage or the switch doesn't work to tell the 4WD controller that it can engage the vac hubs then you don't see the flashing green light and it doesn't even try to engage the hubs.

So for push buttons, you can hear a clunk from the transfer box, then a click from each hub, although you usually need to be close to the wheel to hear it.

If you are a lever then it is the lever which moves the transfer box and then everything else is the same as for push buttons.

Do you see a green light at all, even briefly?

Robin

Push buttons are fine. The vacuum hub system is exactly the same anyway, which is what seems to go wrong on some vehicles. I engage the 4wd system probably weekly for various reasons and its never let me down. I have done the 2wd low mod as well which i think is easier to implement in a push button vehicle? I use it regularly on riverbeds, leave in low range and just engage hubs on the fly for the crossings.

That's more relevant if you have push buttons for the 4x4. I suppose removing the fuse might work but I don't know what else it protects without looking at the diagram. Hence it being easier to block the vacuum system.

I never wanted manual hubs, I wanted the convenience of the three push buttons on the dash, that was until I spent two mornings last winter under the car trying to unblock the the vac lines all to no avail. Buying manual hubs was the quickest way to get my Jimny back to working correctly, essential as I had a 200 mile round trip over the moors in snow last Xmas.

Now when I think back there has been a few instances over the years when I have put my car in 4wd and got a steady green light only to find the rear wheels spinning and no drive to the front, clearly one or more front hubs didn’t lock.  After each time I jacked the car and checked the hubs, perfect.

What I am saying is the vac hubs don’t always work and to me if you can’t guarantee that they will engage every time, then the time you really need Themis when they will fail.  You just don’t get that with manual hubs and to me that’s more important than switching the hubs to the lockposition before I set off.

We have a few cm of snow here and t is -4C, I switched the hubs over two days ago and they are still in the locked position, but I only engage 4wd when needed, like getting up the hill from where I live.

Regardless of which system you use, check your car goes in 4wd and 4wd-L now before you need to use it for real.

Robin
 

I have the 4wd-L light and still get surprised when it is in low..
So doesn't help me a lot.. would not miss it i guess except it does help some when doing fault finding on push button systems.
(But still not completely sure if is an intermittent actuator or vacuum fault.)

You can replace the entire vacuum hose system with a better and more durable solution for under £15.
Buy 10m of 4mm id hose (I use PVC, some prefer more expensive silicon), 2x 4mm hose tees and a pack of cable ties.
Run the hoses from the vacuum solenoids around the engine bay, along the brake lines and down the brake flexis to the hubs. This is far preferable to the original convoluted and exposed hose routing.
Its a simple job that takes less than an hour.

If its the vacuum hubs themselves that are the problem (uncommon but it does happen) a working pair can be obtained cheaply and easily from anyone who has fitted manual hubs. The same goes for the vacuum solenoids.

Another simple option to get 4wd working is to permanently lock the vacuum hubs by driving a 20mm long self tapping screw through the centre of each hub. This pushes the collar into the engaged/locked position and holds them there. They then operate in the same manner as old fashioned drive flanges, or manual hubs being left in the locked position, with 2wd and 4wd being selected using the transfer case lever/buttons as normal.

I can see the reliability upside of manual hubs but the push-button system does allow you to switch between 2WD and 4WD in typical British snow conditions, i.e. main roads salted tarmac, side roads and car parks covered in snow or ice.  4WD is not happy on bare tarmac, so you could be stopping a lot.

Ok for people who only use 4WD off-road, though.

High idle could be a vacuum leak, possibly the pipe from the manifold to the 4WD vacuum solenoid valves under the battery is missing or broken.
Check all rubber pipes that go to the manifold, like the brake servo as well.

A stuck vacuum solenoid valve can vent the vacuum tank and cause the 4WD system to be inoperative too, so if that manifold pipe is connected, try clamping it closed and see if the idle improves.

The idle is controlled by an electric bypass valve on top of the manifold - it needs the throttle pretty much fully closed to work

I recall when I did my clutch that there are some wires that drape over the top of the bell housing that continually try to get caught in the gap between the bell housing and the engine block when you fit the gearbox. I think it was just the reverse light switch with the manual transfer box, but ther might be extra wires for a push button box..

Thanks me101, to be honest I want to retain the OEM electric push button 2/4wd system but appreciate your views on options.

Has anyone any experience at all of the Protrack Gears from Greece? Are they good quality? Do they emit any whine or buzz after fitting? Are they reliable? I have mailed Protrack but still have not received any response which is a little disappointing.

Bigger issue is the 4x4 light on the dash not working (I mentioned that). I took off the connector and inside all looks like new. Perhaps I need to start looking at 4w controller as well. That's something for next week or so. I can drive the car on the road and I've tested it's 2h capabilities on a muddy path. Tha went well, provided you keep your foot on the gas

O joy! The problem is solved. Thanks to this very website!!! I found the answer here:  BigJimny's own Wiki pages!  Under the chapter 'Operational design of the older 4WD system'

In short: the sequence of the flashing light/ light 'on' in older cars with the 4H/4L-shift is different from the sequence in later cars with the push-button operated 4WD. That bugged me. Now I know that the problem is not between the electrics and the controller; it's in the vacuum part of the system.

I'm glad that I found the correct answer before lying under the car, tinkering away with all sorts of tools!

Menno

Roger.
You said it would double or triple the turning circle. I have demonstrated that it doesn't.
You said the vehicle would only drive in a straight line, I have demonstrated that it doesn't.
You said that driving would be difficult. I have demonstrated that it isn't.
You said that the vehicle would buck around. I have demonstrated that it doesn't.
You said that something will break. I have demonstrated that it doesn't.

9.8m is the turning circle in 2wd. No Jimny will turn that sharp in 4wd. I can measure it if you'd like? Or I can make another video comparing directly with a standard Jimny in 4wd. I can also demonstrate how the engine loads up just the same without a welded diff, which is normal when using 4wd  while turning sharply on a relatively grippy surface. You should be aware of this, as you say you noticed the steering weighting up when using your "LC" in 4wd on grippy surfaces. It's the same thing.

I have a Quaife LSD fitted in the rear, which is a helical gear LSD just like the Truetrac you had back in the day (not available for a Jimny).

We could compile a list of popular modifications that contravene construction and use regulations. It would be quite long. As discussed many times before, using 4wd on a sealed surface is not on my agenda, no should it be on anyone else's. It is potentially dangerous even in a completely standard vehicle.

Your second post describes exactly how the 4wd system on a standard Jimny can be used, with a simple push of a button or flick of a lever at a moments notice. No conversion needed.

Hello have a look here good luck 
www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/search?...te=all&childforums=1

Re: Got my 4WD system working again on my '05.
UPDATE
Decided to replace the link plug with a button on the dash, advantage is if the garage decides
to 'try' it in 4WD, I can switch off the feed from the vacuum switch to the controller, which
will stop it going into 4WD (Flashing light!).. So bought a 2nd hand Heated R window switch off Epay and
was going to fit it on the R/H side of the 4WD switch panel, where there is a big round blank, but thought
that was too tempting to press! So had a look in the parts catalogue and see what should go in the blanked
hole that is in the Fog light panel and it turns out it's a 'coin tray'!



So, had a look on Epay for a 2nd hand Fog light switch, and luckily, found that it was the same switch body as
(I know I'm going on a bit here but you are the only guys I can talk to {Live on my own/Cabin lockdown fever etc..)
the switch I've already got, Bonus! So soldered some tails onto the contacts to find out which pin did what



With the help of the wiring diags...



and decided not to bother with the 'ON' light or illumination, but just have it as a push-to-close switch.
Made up a harness and literally took me 5 mins to fit....





And Bingo, it works too!



I'll get my coat.....
Gaz

Hi me101 thanks for the write up & pics but do you have to do all that to stop the Green Light flashing as mine as just started to do that,I heard a clonk when depressing the switches then that was it the green light is stuck on flashing so I'm not sure it it's in 2wd or 4wd?can you not just bypass the system as you,ve shown without having to pull it all to bits?the pic of the switch wire linked out is not to clear have you another pic you could post please

Regards

Keith

Hi, the 4wd system is now fixed (fingers crossed!). Thought I'd put a bit of something together with pictures in case it helps someone else. Been very busy with the house the last couple of years, so any little bits of work have been done by the garage. It has been nice to get down to doing it myself for a change!
Have a look, let me know if I have missed something obvious:

www.clsdoncaster.com/post/jimny-4wd-issue-resolved

Thanks to those who input to getting this solved.

Update: First of all thank you everyone for reply and comments. I'm sure they'd help in solving the problem.

However, I doubted firstly, the switches, as the 4wd mode is already in and running with no issue, if its the switch it should have been problem when I tried to put the 4wd in, at least indicators would somehow flashes, even if it broke when I was already in 4wd, it should some more warning lights. But in my case the Jimny in 4wdL functioned normally. Yellow "L" indicators only flashes when I tried to change it to 4wd from 4wdL and nothing mechanically happened, and when I push the 4wdL button to "change it back"(tells the system I tried failed then put it back), the flash stops, everything back to normal in 4wdL.

I also doubted the vacuum leak, also because it acts normal in 4wdL mode no problems no flashes at all, if the vacuum fails it would affect the free wheel hub and the whole 4wd system would show error. I did actually try to switch the mode when I turn the key to ignition but without the engine on actually (good to have a manual car), it fails to change and the green "H" pattern 4wd light start to flash not the L, I then start the engine tried again, "H" stops flashing, and everything back to beginning of the problem. So this further proves, NO or LOW vacuum would show different symptoms, not very likely to have close relation to my case.

Someone told me to reverse and brake, I tried, also drove then hard brake, and tried to drive in 4wdL then run neutral to stop, even when I jacked up the car first thing I tried is to spin the lifted wheel front and back hardly couple of times. Sit back into car and try the change, nothing happens. So I believe it was not mechanically jammed, but still big thank you.

FINALLY:

I read some other forum someone mentioned about solenoid, I thought it might be the cause. I had experience in solving solenoid issue for a starter motor, guess they somehow are similar. So before I get the switch checked and vacuum checked, I simply jacked up the vehicle and lie down of it, gave it few gentle bashes on the metal cover of the solenoids with hammer, starting again, and tried. Guess what? PROBLEM SOLVED! 5 MINS.

Of course I'm looking for a replacement solenoid and try not to use 4wd again before repaired. If have to I'd only use high speed 4WD, and only switch when completely stopped. Don't want the intermittent problem become a constant "push button and hammer bashing" 4wd, eventually one day it will refuse the bashes at all. Won't let the it come too early before parts found.

At the end I HIGHLY RECOMMEND EVERYONE TRY THIS FIRST if symptom is same, its so simple worth a try even it's actually some other issue.

Hi guys,

I have a 2008 jimny love it.

Don't have any modification.

Now it comes with a problem, My transfer case has malfunction. It used to be intermittent failure including changing into 4wd, or changing from 4wd to 4wdL, or change back. Now I have got it stuck in 4wdL won't change back.

Pushed and hold the button but nothing happens, I can feel it "tries" to work as the engine idle rev lowing a bit as it's consuming electricity. After few second it started flashing 4wdL light. I then push 4WDL button it's back with with normal, just normal in 4wdL. Driving with no problem under 4wdL no warning sigh what's so ever.

This problem happened once before but it just stopped for a long time, last time I tried push the button and hold for few times then it suddenly back to work until just few hours again . I haven't found any luck yet,

Does anyone have any clue? I pressed brake and clutch when I doing it. I know how to switch the system when it is working.

Many Thanks.

Zhou Yu

Hey folks

As per the title, I have a 06 VVT (push button) Jimny, been having intermittent problems with the 4WD system engaging until a couple of weeks ago it let me down where it really counted (half way up a muddy incline). Since then it has been flashing constantly, I have investigated it, the rubber piping running into the controller below the battery seems in fine condition with no breaks or cracks, as is the 3 lines going into the back of my wheel hubs. However the metal line running over the top of the axle is rusted to buggery & I imagine is perforated somewhere.

I'm just about at the point where I give in and fit manual hubs. However I haven't yet ordered them & it just dawned on me my MOT is booked next week, so my weekend job is turning the bloody warning light off, I imagine it isn't a fail but the garage I'm using isn't familiar to me & I'd rather not risk the grief. Does anyone have any suggestions to quickly get the light to stop flashing? It now just flashes constantly from when I put my keys in the ignition (before It would flash until I turned the engine off for a period, then when turned back on it would either be off, or lit for 4WD, in the latter case hitting 2WD would turn it off as normal).

Having experienced the 4x4 system failing on me while out yesterday I have been trying to read through all the threads on converting to manual hubs.

Please can I check my understanding.

1. I replace the hubs with manual locking ones.
2. When I now select 4wd the system will give me the flashing green 4x4 symbol because it won’t know the system has changed.
3. I need to permanently short out the wires on the grey vacuum sensor so the system thinks it has vac.

4. Operate 4wd and 4wd-l from cabin as required.

Oh yes and then I can remove all the vac pipes, solenoids and all that stuff, just blocking the manifold?

5. If I forget to switch manual hubs back to 2wd nothing too bad happens, just a bit less economic on fuel tyres etc?

Is that it? Or is there something more to it?

Apologies if a stupid question, but all the write ups seemed to be for lever based systems not the buttons.

Several days ago I helped a friend convert his 2016 Jimny to manual hubs. His system developed a vacuum leak and I convinced him that it might make more sense to go to manual hubs. After installing the hubs we shorted the vacuum switch circuit at the connector and plugged/capped the vacuum system. We began to drive to an area where we could test the system to insure everything was working correctly. About a minute out, the 4WD lights began flashing. Going back to his garage, I took a cursory look to insure there weren’t any obvious problems with wiring connections. We then did a test to see if the transfer case was engaging.

The source of my confusion:
1. Usually (but not always) when the car is first started, the 4WD lights aren’t flashing and take anywhere from 10 – 15 seconds to a couple of minutes before they do.
2. If the lights aren’t flashing, pressing the 4WD-H button will give a steady 4WD light and pressing the 4WD-L button will add a steady 4WD-L light. The cycle can be reversed by pressing the 4WD-H button, causing the 4WD-L light to turn off and then pressing the 2WD button, turning the 4WD light off.
3. If the 4WD lights are on as outlined in item 2, they will still begin flashing within a couple of minutes.
4. The 4WD lights have no bearing on whether the transfer can engage. Doing the ‘one wheel lifted’ test, the transfer will engage or disengage after pushing the buttons whether the lights are steady or flashing.

The manuals I have access to don’t cover the newer model Jimnys. Anyone with ideas on how to get these lights working properly?

Thanks
Bob

I am in the middle of my own project to revamp my Jimny 3's interior, made in 2012.

Intended final situation:
Upgraded interior primarily for "on road comfort" (a.k.a. "Pavement princess" vehicle) but with some useful all-terrain additions. This means keeping all four seats inside for normal passenger use.


The current situation:
- all seats removed;
- floor carpet removed;
- plastic sill covers on side door openings removed;
- surrounding plastic casings around hand brake and gear lever removed;
- all door trim removed, including moisture barrier nylon foil inside the doors;
- all lower side trim in the cabin removed;
- main wiring bundles released from body;
- all factory speakers removed;
- entire front dash board still in place;
- all upper side trim in the cabin still in place;
- roof trim still in place;


Planned modifications and upgrades:
1. Application of two-stage sound deadening insulation throughout the cabin and in the doors (stage 1 "alubutyl" on body panels and stage 2 "foams" on plastic trims and below the carpet).
2. Application of cavity wax in all interior cavities (doors, sills under the door openings, behind rear vertical lamps, below rear side windows, behind rear speakers ...)
3. Installation of a pair of front Hertz DCX 100.3 speakers (10 cm)
4. Installation of a pair of rear Hertz DCX 130.3 speakers (13 cm)
5. Installation of rear cabin lamp P.N. 36210-74F02-6GS including wiring
6. Installation of additional wiring (more USB charging stations front and rear, wiring for front and rear dash cam, wiring for concealed GPS tracker ...)
7. Enabling 2WD-L transmission mode by fiddling with some wires to the electric transfer box or to the 4WD controller;
8. Possibly the replacement of the factory 2-DIN Clarion radio with something better;


My first question is:
Are there any additional ideas on what to do apart from all this? I must have forgotten something useful!


Dilemmas regarding job 1:

There is a lot of factory applied molten bitumen on the floor.
It does not appear to be well adhered to the metal on "ribbed" areas. I am contemplating whether to invest time and effort (and risks of scratching the panels below) on removing it with the aid of hot air gun, or just to heat it up with it and press it firmly and hope that it sticks this time. If I remove if, I will replace it with proper high quality alubutyl sheets which will certainly adhere well, but they are quite expensive and should be therefore applied sparingly.
Would it be cost effective to to this? Has anyone removed the factory molten bitumen from the floor below the front and rear seats in a Jimny and how did it go?

I will certainly discard the factory cotton mill scrap which is glued onto the floor carpet (and already partly rotten due to molds after just five years of service) and replace it with proper closed cell sound insulating foam.

I am jut not certain whether to risk removing the roof trim in order to apply alubutyl and foams onto the roof, because I could crease the roof trim. Would it make sense to drive the car as-is- to a professional roof trim craftsman and have them remove the roof trim and take the risk? They are all used to removing already ruined roof trims so they usually do not care if they damage it during removal.



Dilemmas regarding job 2:

Is there any benefit in hose spray washing the sill cavities below all the door openings with water, and letting them dry before applying wax inside? If I decide on that, I would have to wait at least until June for the weather to heat up, and even then I suppose it would take at least a week to dry out!
Is there any issue if I just apply the wax inside those cavities now, over the existing dust and dirt inside?


Dilemmas regarding job 4:

Any experiences about cramming in 13 cm speakers into rear speaker position holes? There is enough depth, but I will have to widen the holes, but I have not figured the best method on how to do that.



Dilemmas regarding job 6:
Any specific ideas on what type of wiring to install (which type of cables) and also for which purposes?



Dilemmas regarding job 7:
How the heck to accomplish this with an electric transfer box and push button controls?


Dilemmas regarding job 8:

I am contemplating on the idea of adding a subwoofer, but I suppose it would mean replacing the radio, and not using the Hertz DCX 2-way speakers? What are the experiences of having a subwoofer in a Jimny, and where is the best placement? Which kind of front and rear speakers should be used with it?
In order to use a subwoofer, could I keep the Clarion radio and the Hertz speakers, and just add an amplifier into the system?

Hi - looking for inspiration.....

I have the opportunity to purchase either a 1991 soft top Samurai (with full MOT & 45k) or a 2007 Jimny with full MOT (102k). It will not be a daily driver. It will be kept outside and will be used in case of bad weather, some offroading but nothing extreme (slightly hilly fields, mud tracks etc), lugging stuff like garden waste to the tip, transporting wood for a wood burner.

The appeal of Samurai is basic, functional etc. The appeal of the Jimny is comfort etc.
Are my downsides right...…..

Samurai will be cold in winter due to soft top
Samurai may be difficult to get spares
Jimny has push button 4WD and vacumm system (less reliable than Samurai)
Both potentially have rust issues but is one more prone than other - Jimny hasn't been welded yet so maybe on the cards.
Samurai ride is potentially harsher due to leaf springs.....
Samurai price is about £1k less than Jimny and tax and insurance is c £200 pa less

Given the choice what should I go for (I just wish there wasn't a choice) and anything else I should consider??

Thanks

Paul

When you were testing out the push button one did you have your foot on the brake and the clutch fully disengaged when you tried for 4lo?

Hi - I’m looking for a Jimny and have driven a 4 so far - one stick change with no 4wd lights at all, 2 with audible hub engagement and green 4wd light when in 4wd H and one push button selector which wouldn’t go into 4wd L from 4wd H.

My question is should there be a change in dashboard lights for a stick selector model when going from 4wd H to 4wd L please?

Many thanks
Paul