4wd problems

That's useful info Thanks, Does a 1.1 to 1.3 ratio change make a lot of difference on the road? I tend to take things steady (max 60 on the dual carriageway) and I tow a trailer full of logs most of the time so I am wondering if a lower ratio might actually be a benefit.
I am currently on stock road tyres but soon as they wear out I will be putting all terrains on and was planning to fit 195 x 15s which at full height profile I hope will sit slightly taller than the stock tyres and should be easier on the steering. I am hoping that the changes will be small but would make for a more practical drive set up for my intended use.

I am picking up a spare transfer box (stick shift) tomorrow, I am hoping to cure the issue I have so that I can take time to replace bearings & seals on the spare box and have it ready for later use. However I will at least have it to fit now if needed.

So my question now really is Am I on the right track? or am I talking B

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ks
Thanks again

Yes your link really has helped, I will try again tomorrow. At least I will now be able to get out of 4wd. Buys me time to sort the rest.

In very basic terms going to the 1.3 box is like loosing 5th gear if that makes sense. You still have all 5 but the rpm will be noticeably higher to achieve the same road speed. It will however make life easier when towing by reducing the crawl speed in first and reverse so the clutch will have an easier life. Some people have done it and loved it others can't wait to put it back to standard.

For future reference.

The greater the difference between tyre wear front to back the greater the "fight" between the axles because the wheels are being driven at different speeds. If you are on a sealed road and the tyres are gripping well, you get axle wind up. If you drive onto a sealed surface and drive a distance and then switch back to 2 wheel drive you may experience a bang. This is the wind up being released. It's all a matter of degrees, the difference in tyre diameter, the surface you have driven on and the surface you are now on and how long you have driven on it . 4 wheel drive is perfect for rough stony tracks. The surface allows slipping and wind up doesn't occur. The British Army instructed drivers of the 6 x 6 Stalwart to frequently drive onto the grass verge to let wind up dissipate. If you find yourself in a situation with the t/box locked in 4 wheel drive, driving onto grass is a good idea.

The t/box is a relatively simple affair in as much that it it is a separate unit to the main box. It is light and easily removed from the Jimny and simple to dismantle. If you are sure the box has a hair line crack and it is still locked in 4 wheel drive and all other options have proved negative, then bite the bullet and take it apart. Martin has done a series of strip and re-build videos that will put you on the right track

Roger

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.

The story now is that I have the manual hubs on and working fine. The transfer box is still stuck in 4wd but when conditions allow I now know how to manualy move it into 2wd if I need to. It "appears" the actuator is no good and its the actuator that is cracked so I could just change that, but at £300+ I think I prefer to change to the spare stick shift box that I got this morning at half the price.
I will put up with the range difference and will try to mitigate it slightly with taller tyres as and when.

I realise I will have to cut a hole in the floor or remove a blanking plate to accommodate the stick shift, Are there any other issues with doing the change over?
Eg are mountings and drive flanges the same etc, does the change cause an issue with getting the speedo working?

Any suggestions for minor mods whilst I am doing it that might make it more durable/stronger and better suited to driving on forestry tracks?
I am thinking about maybe through bolt mountings and an alloy bash plate. i don't want to add the weight of a steel one and since I don't do serious off roading I don't envisage grounding it so its just to stop stones or twigs flying up.
All the bash plates I have seen so far are steel. Does anyone know a manufacturer of alloy ones?

The hole in the floor is there already with a blanking plate. I can't remember what the process is for the speedometer if it doesn't just plug in? As for guards the factory transfer mounts are aluminium and shear for fun so even relatively light contact can be bad. To that end I have both steel mounts and a steel plate guard. I don't off road as such but I do go round my hill farm every day so I figured that the weight penalty was nothing compared with writing off a transfer box on a grassy knoll, branch or unseen rock. Also it's a good skid so if it does catch then I have half a chance of reversing off the obstacle instead of getting hung up on it. Guards are cheaper than transmissions.