Burning clutch

Hi, i need a little help with what i belive is a problem in the clutch cable adjustment.

so, about 4 or 5 months ago i got the clutch and cluch cable replaced.
ever since it smells like burning, but it's not slipping.
if i put it into first and set off fast and furious style, it doesn't smell or slip. all i notice is a small whirr, like, when you scrape jeans on jeans. this is normal, every car i had did this when the rpms are to high at the moment i release the clutch pedal.

however.. if i'm in 4th or 5th gear doing 60+mph, if the road becomes an incline, it starts smelling like burning clutch. the rpms remain stable, so it's not slipping, but for some reason, the extra "resistance" caused by the incline makes it burn the clutch.

this one time i had the front wheels against a sidewalk, so i used the clutch and accelerator to go up it. the wheels did not slip, the car didn´t move, but as soon as i started releasing the pedal, the smell was so intense it almost smelled like burnt rubber.

twice now at start up it made that high pitch whine in the morning, wich i assume came from the cluch bearing or something like that.

when i turn on the car, clutch depressed, as soon as i start releasing the clutch (in neutral) i can hear it touch and spining.

2 weeks ago before going on vacation, i remembered the clutch cable cover was kinda shady, so i took a look. it was missing (new one on the way). since it was missing and i had felt a little difference in the clutch pedal, i took the chance to check the slack on the cable. it had some, so i tightned the nut on the gearbox end of the cable. it got a little better, but the nut was so loose (did it by hand with no problem) that i have a feeling it will probably unscrew itself a bit in time.

so..i't thinking the burning clutch is due to something wrong in the cable adjustment.
so, if i was to try and tighten to cable..should i do it in the pedal end or the gearbox end? if i over thighten, what will happen? what is happening when the clutch adjustment is off?
thanks all

also, the cluch lever feels notchy. it was like this before changing the clutch, changing it made no difference. i like the feel, it's very mechanical, not a syncromesh problem 'cuz it doesn't grind, it just feels notchy, like a a bolt action rifle. almost as notch as the 4wd slector lever

The adjustment for the cable is at the gearbox end. When you say tight I associate that with the cable shortening which will cause the clutch lever to actually depress the clutch plate and hence cause it to disengage. What you need to do is lengthen the cable so that to ensure the clutch plate is fully extended forcing the friction plate onto the flywheel. You then need to take up the slack in the cable tp the point just before the clutch plate starts to disengage the friction plate. You can normally tell by the amount of feel you get from the pedal. Generally when a friction plate is worn the bite of the clutch is felt right at the top of the pedal travel so a good clutch adjustment would mean a good bite not far from the floor as you let the clutch out.

mickt wrote: The adjustment for the cable is at the gearbox end. When you say tight I associate that with the cable shortening which will cause the clutch lever to actually depress the clutch plate and hence cause it to disengage. What you need to do is lengthen the cable so that to ensure the clutch plate is fully extended forcing the friction plate onto the flywheel. You then need to take up the slack in the cable tp the point just before the clutch plate starts to disengage the friction plate. You can normally tell by the amount of feel you get from the pedal. Generally when a friction plate is worn the bite of the clutch is felt right at the top of the pedal travel so a good clutch adjustment would mean a good bite not far from the floor as you let the clutch out.

Lets see if i got this straight...
Under the cable cover, there's a black piece of metal with a slit in wich the cable end sits. When i depress the pedal, this piece of metal moves back, pulling back the cable. On the end of the cable there's is a NUT that i can rotate to tighten(of does it Take up slack?)

Só, if i got that right, of i tighten of lossen that NUT, i'll be influencing the bits point? Is this right? And of só, where do i Take up the slack? On the pedal end? I'm just tempted to go and tighten it up till there's no slack and see what happens.
When i tightend it up by hand, the only thing i noticed different was the pedal feel..not the bite point, but a difference on the variation of resistence along the pedal's travel

The clutch pedal pivots in the middle so you pressing it down pulls the cable. This in turn pulls the clutch operating lever forwards to disconnect the friction plate from the pressure plate and flywheel. By turning the nut clockwise you are in effect shortening the cable and hence shortening the pedal travel. At the gearbox loosen the nut right off and then pull the cable as tight as you can and rotate the nut clockwise until there appears to be no freeplay. Then try the clutch to see where the biting point is. You need a little bit of pedal movement before the clutch bites to ensure that the clutch fully disengages. As the friction plate wears the biting point gets ever more up the range of the pedal as you release it. To ensure the clutch pressure plate is not worn after you have adjusted the range of movement and are happy try selecting fourth gear and attempt to move off after letting the clutch out. If all is well the car will stall. If not then you will get the engine revs going up and a burning smell will be present.

so, after a while looking for pictures i found a video on youtube that made thing a lot clearer for me

i was thinking i needed to adhust the cable at the arm inside the gearbox hole, but it seems it has to do with the rubbed plastic nut outside the bell housing instead.

the bitting point, it's acctually a bit too high up in the pedal travel. my problem however is the burning clutch in gear,foot off the pedal, maybe not enough preasure on the plate? or the thing has not disengaged properly?

be it as it may, i'm going to follow your instructions and use the pedal feel as a guide. as of right now there is no play in the pedal whatsoever and the bitting point is a bit high up. going to try and take it back down a bit. i'm thinking that by doing so, i'm not just messing with the pedal settings, but also with the way the clutch grabs and lets go.

so...first tighten the plastic nut outside the bell housing towards the engine to stretch the cable and drive down the pedal, and then fiddle with the nut on the bit of cable inside the hole to take up the slack, right?

thank you so much for your clarifications, very helpfull