newbe queries on poorly Jimny
robs5230 wrote: no advice has been offered on the incorrect bolts in the trailing arms so here's mine. the trailing arm holes have a habit of elongating causing the clunk you mentioned. it is fixable at little cost but you do need to make sure whether this is the case before just buying new bolts.
as said in previous comments, most of this is diy stuff and i'd be looking for advice from an mot tester rather than a suzuki dealer. the only reason i'd visit a dealer is for a part not available elsewhere.
good luck
I've answered this by saying to buy the right bolts from the Big Jimny shop.
Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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you did but i meant as regards the holes elongating. seems odd that someone would use smaller bolts . and if they did they would only cause or enhance the holes elongating so it'd be best to check that anyway.kirkynut wrote:
robs5230 wrote: no advice has been offered on the incorrect bolts in the trailing arms so here's mine. the trailing arm holes have a habit of elongating causing the clunk you mentioned. it is fixable at little cost but you do need to make sure whether this is the case before just buying new bolts.
as said in previous comments, most of this is diy stuff and i'd be looking for advice from an mot tester rather than a suzuki dealer. the only reason i'd visit a dealer is for a part not available elsewhere.
good luck
I've answered this by saying to buy the right bolts from the Big Jimny shop.
Kirkynut
standard jimny - for now
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Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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To clarify on the rear bushes, as new bolts did not come with the replacement bushes as was expected (and confirmed with the supplier) at the time, the local garage made do. What I suspect they did was use bolts with the incorrect shoulder - maybe a fully threaded screw or even an imperial bolt. That seems an easy thing to fix as the correct bolts are only about £12 a set. I suspect replacement ones could push the old incorrect ones out.
Thanks for the response on the water leak. Is that an accessible location with the engine in?
I took the car to the local National Tyre Autocentre this afternoon to get a look at the exhaust. It apparently needs a full system including CAT. On e-bay that looks to be around £180. Is there only one type for a 1999 car, just to make sure I get the right one if I go down the route of keeping it.
There is rust to the cills. in fact a surprising amount on the passenger side. Hopefully I can post photos on this forum. Some of them show the sills and some the other parts under discussion - the broken vacuum pipes can also be seen.
On the matter of the front hubs, if we wanted to keep the vacuum system rather than replacing the hubs are the pipes readily available?
Another item I've noticed but one not mentioned by the dealer was a difference between what I'll call the front hubs but that's not the correct name - sorry not have a 4*4 myself and not worked on one. It's the ball on the ends of the front axle's. The one on the drivers side shows that it has turned whereas that on the passenger side has not - it's quite corroded in comparison as well. I'm not sure it's removable / replaceable separately if that's what's needed
Many Thanks again
Paul
1999 T registered Jimny. Early G13BB SOHC engine.
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