newbe queries on poorly Jimny

looks quite bad your jimny
the plate on back on engine is easy to reach just stick a hand round there and feel for the two 10mm bolts holding the plate on remove this and change the o ring coolent will come out so top up after

It is a 15 year old car after all, but it's not all bad......













note that the discolouration will be the result of the rust converter Fe-123 from www.rust.co.uk . I probably should have followed it up with a primer / paint straight afterwards.

I had planned to get it all waxoyled but the local specialist did not respond to my enquiry and I probably just neglected it.

Cheers - where do you get that 'O' ring?

Paul

Just had a quick look at the pics and a quick read. In general terms I personally hate places like Kwikfit, Halfords, Suzuki Dealers etc. I have seen so often what garages, local or otherwise, that make do actually do do and they create more problems. I am currently fighting a similar battle with a Shogun Pinin that has had garage handling most of its life!

If you find a good MoT station or garage then treasure it as they are a rarity. I have gone to my MoT bloke for 20 years for good reason.

What you have is a motor that needs the time and attention that can be given to it by an enthusiastic DIYer who can be all over it as and when. It does look a bit desperate in places but it is a chassis vehicle so what would probably be desperate in a Ford Ka is not necessarily so in an off roader of this style.

I entirely agree with what has been advised. Especially the manual hubs conversion. Just forget about the vacuum system, most people fall foul of it.

Some oil leaks are livable and sometimes I like a bit of oil splattered around underneath. It is a judgement call and a leak on the front axle is probably a sign of work needed on the king pins but you can decide when that would need attention on the list.

Initially prioritise - I would make a list to work through. I hate tinworm and go for that first except when there are serious issues that need attention first. It will sap your enthusiasm and at this time of the year it is even more off-putting.As far as if you think it is worth doing or junking, I go by how it feels to drive. if it pleases you then surely it is worth TLC.

Good luck and don't necessarily despair.

Paul4A wrote:
One thought is that we could replace the rear trailing arm bolts with the correct ones, renew the rusty brake pipe, and renew the vacuum pipes to the front hubs to get the four wheel drive working again for the winter. That and the minimum needed to the exhaust might get the car through the winter to the next MOT. We could then take stock again on whether to spend more money or scrap it.

In all honesty Paul, having seen how rusty it actually is I'm going to have to eat my words twice in one thread and I think this is the best idea at the moment. Just check there's no rust too near a body mount, where the body is mounted to the chassis with a rubber bush. An MOT tester can advise on this.

The suspension bolts are cheap off the BigJimny shop and should just knock through. If the bush moves you can jiggle it with a screw driver from the other side and it'll got through eventually.

The exhaust may only just have started to blow and you may be able to see how it goes until the MOT.

In respect of the hubs, I'd give up on the vacuum system as those pipes are all so rusty. Call KAP to ask about fixed front hubs as a cheap option or worse case scenario get manual hubs on the basis they will always sell again on this forum, albeit for a bit less than you bought them for.

The rusty brake pipe will have to be done.

Kirkynut

Paul4A wrote: Cheers - where do you get that 'O' ring?

Paul

I've used the one found in my garage, since there was no part number in catalog for it. I think you may use any O-ring that fits the groove on this plate.