leaking swivel joints

There was no wear on my kingpins when I did them. By the time I had wire-brushed off all the mud and rust, then repainted them I couldn't tell which was which so I just stuck them back on.

Even if they have worn crooked, all the bearing outers are new and not crooked so I really can't see it making any difference. If I were replacing the original races I would have marked everything.

Jimny failed the MOT for to much play with the worn bearings plus the usual oil seepage, My local Suzuki dealer wants £347 to change out the kingpin bearings on one side. Just ordered a bearing kit from Martin for £23, I hope the rain keeps off at weekend

Foxtrot wrote: ...My local Suzuki dealer wants £347 to change out the kingpin bearings on one side...

Hell's teeth!!! My local Suzuki dealer quoted £182 to do mine, so seeing as I'm not that handy with the spanners they got the job.

Not an MOT failure if they are not too bad, I just got an advisory on the nearside one at the test 2 weeks ago. Apart from that it sailed through, not bad for 12 year old "Jap Crap" as my Landy mates call it

i was just told on the side last Feb that my nearside was on the way out... so its taken about 6-8months to finish them off. Although the drivers side was solid then... and now equally bad.

It drives okay. But need to get the bits sorted and changed if i'm going to make it to wagtail

I would think that the pins should be a 'nip' fit (no pun intended) on the bearing inner ring and the outer ring be an interference fit on the axle case. This allows the ball bearings to roll in relation to the bearing case and all of the wear should be on the interior of the bearing race ways, not on the pin.

If the bearing is a loose fit on the pin then I would be tempted to use some bearing 'lock tight' to ensure the bearing is a 'nip' fit on the pin and does not rotate. If the bearing cannot be made to fit snugly on the pin and hold it, that would be the time to consider replacement of the pin.