Roll cage

Surely scaffold tube is strong?

My reply from DaveCC's "Do I need a rollcage" thread -

Just my 2c...

I've never been a fan of external cages... I've just never liked the look of the playground monkey-bars welded around a 4x4 kinda-look... So with my first truck, I had an internal roll hoop with an external cage piece to protect the windscreen and front of the cab from rubbing against trees, etc...



The "Superzuki"

So, with the new Jimny build I've gone for the same again...

My drawing to the ORA -



And today it turned up with a carrier -





The ends of they stays have been notched ready for welding to the top crossbar...



... and the feet -



With sandwich plates under the floor -






Looks like I was half an inch out with my sketch!

So I just need to cut a little off the bottom of the feet tubes, and weld the X-cross pieces onto the foot plates, and I'm done... get it tacked, welded up, and then off for powder-coating...

May not protect my car's body in a roll, or "lazy lie-down"... but it will protect my own body from a roll... which in my opinion, for greenlaning, is what's definately needed... especially with a soft-top-with-a-hard-top...

Scaffold tube will be plenty strong enough but also very heavy. With CDS you can get the same strength with much less weight, which means you are less likely to roll in the first place.

A roll cage isn't the place to be learning to weld so if you are new to welding, get someone who has experience to do it for you and learn from them. An arc welder will do the job but a mig welder will be 10x easier.

Most of the tubing on a traybak is lower down, it's only the bit over the cab, which from the CDs tube can't be much weight surely

Bigjim91 wrote: Most of the tubing on a traybak is lower down, it's only the bit over the cab, which from the CDs tube can't be much weight surely

It still adds up on a light vehicle.

There's easily a total of 15-20 kg's in difference between making it in CDS/T45 or making it in scaffold tube.

:ohmy: