tow bar

Thought Id attached a picture, obviously did something wrong!

Is it a genuine exhaust??
Is it mounted correctly and none of the mountings are broken/worn?
If you loosened off the exhaust clamps could it be moved ?
It's difficult to tell just from a description but it should not be resting on the towbar.
If you look at general images of a Jimny with a towbar the crosspiece should run across just under the bottom edge of the bumper so just loosely put the bumper back to confirm this.
If it does then the problem lies with your exhaust.

If you scroll down this link you will find a couple of pics that show it all very well.
The box in the pic is the later VVT model where it has a join at the rear box.
Yours appears to be the earlier version where the join is before the angle in to the box but apart from that they are identical.

www.bigjimny.com/forum/11-for-sale-and-w...or-my-new-jimny.html

As you can hopefully see, the tow bar is close to the exhaust on my Jim and it doesn't rattle

Now you've got that far, why don't you tighten it up and drive it. You never know, it might be okay!

When tow bar not in situ the exhaust box is not horizontal, so I guess the problem is indeed with the way the exhaust is mounted. I have got the bar tightened up and the exhaust is resting on the bar cross member, no other way to do it. I suppose I could go quickfit or some such and get the exhaust re mounted a little bit higher? Or just put something between the box and the cross member to stop rattles, and wait until the exhaust is changed and they would then mount it higher? Although the hangers seem to indicate its in the right position. Either way, the whole job has proven very frustrating, and I have yet to do the wiring? Is there a guide as the colours of the relevant jimny wires in the loom anywhere?

With the wiring, go to the top of the page. Click on 'Website Home', then 'Information', then 'How to'.

Hope this helps.

In my opinion you need to get that exhaust fitted correctly before you do anything else !!
It will rattle and wear against the towbar until something gives and the paint on towbars is not thick.
It's definately not hanging right and I think it needs to be pushed forward on the pipe as it seems a bit far back?
You could see if you can loosen the clamp but it'll be rusted well.
If you can find something to tie it up higher (something that won't melt) eg bare wire then just take it to your local exhaust place and see what they say.
If you thought getting the bumper off was a struggle then be prepared for worse if you attempt the exhaust yourself.
I always take mine to an exhaust place as I find that they are not much more than ebay prices and they get to do the swearing

It sounds like something has either broken or it has not been fitted correctly in the first place but due to heat/age exhausts will sag over time if not fitted correctly.
From the pic I have just seen the box doesn't look very old so the clamp may loosen but use WD40 etc. and leave to soak in.

Here's picture I took from under my Jim a couple of minutes ago. The hangers are definitely different. I agree with gilburton.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationYour box should have 2 hangers like this??

Yes, the hangers are like that. In case anyone else considers doing this, I just popped to National Tyres as its only a couple of miles away, and after getting it up on the ramps he advised me there was nothing he could do. He suspects the exhaust is not a suzuki original, and thus the rear box may be a bit larger, and the way it is constructed meant he could not dismantle and put it back any differently. I have a put a rubber O ring under the part that is resting to prevent banging. As its the end box he reckons it wont get hot enough to melt it. When I need a new box, I`ll probably need to source a Suzuki part. I dont know what you guys think of this diagnosis, but when under the car I could see what he meant about being unable to help. Driving there I couldnt hear it rattling, but it is quite tight.
Regarding the wiring Fozzie, in that article in the how to section, he makes no mention of the earth wire? Als, is it absolutely necessary to go to the loom under the trim or can you not just splice into wires in light assemblies?
I have to say I am extremely grateful for all the help and guidance I have received

The reason they fit flexible rubber hangers is to allow the exhaust to flex around as it does just that.
If it's not allowed to move chances are eventually the exhaust will shear somewhere with stress.

There are 2 things you could do buy a middle pipe and silencer and get it fitted or DIY .
The other thing is to have a look and see if you can shorten or modify the middle pipe.
It's nothing special just a pipe that possibly you could cut and get a sleeve to rejoin it by either welding or clamping.
It should cost around £60-£70 to replace the exhaust and pipe.

No doubt I'm going to get shot down here but in the old days we did exactly that we broke in to the wiring at the rear lights or across the boot.
The one advantage of getting at the loom by removing the side panel is that ALL the wires are together in one place.
You'll have to find the reverse/fog lamp wires either in the boot or under the n/side upper lens. I have done it that way but it's tight.
If you remove the light lenses in the bumper you can then push the trailer wires through the grommets in to the back of the bumper between the lense and bumper where it will get some protection.
You can cable tie these wires to the towbar and or the existing wires which run behind the bumper.
You might have to extend the trailer wires separately to reach though.