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Alternator removal and refitting

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05 Jan 2011 22:02 #8961 by JonathonMarshall
Is this an easy task? I am sure my alternator is on its way out, the bearings are squeeling - only occurs when the batteries been drained a little (side lights left on for a few mins with engine off). It stops if lube is sprayed in and a mechanic has said it could be the bearings in light of it stopping the screech, temporarily. I'm wanting to take the alt in to get reconditioned but am I want to know whats involved in advance. Thanks in advance!

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05 Jan 2011 22:35 #8964 by facade
Simples!

Unplug it, and remove the cable (Disconnecting the battery earth lead first would be a good idea)
Just undo and remove the adjuster bolts from the top side, and then simply undo and remove the lower pivot bolt from beneath the car, and the alternator lifts out.

Should only take 10 minutes.

I spent 2 hours trying to undo the lower pivot bolt, and I still can't do it. The radiator has to come out to get mole grips to it, or more likely to weld a nut to the head.

You can only get at it from underneath, and it is an 8mm allen key, but you can't get a key in because it is made of LandRovers own Rustomatic(tm) steel, and it won't go in, and there is no room to swing a hammer to knock it in, and you can either hold the key, or try and hit it because only room for 1 hand at a a time.
So I ground a slight lead on the key, just enough to get it to stay in by itself, and then patted it in with a tyre lever, about 2000 tiny hits.
And my puny muscles won't turn the ratchet.
So I got LandRover tool #2 (the long tube) over the handle. and it went round, making the hexagon hole round.

The other end is a welded lug: it has to come out of the front.

I only wanted to adjust the fanbelt too.....

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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06 Jan 2011 06:09 #8969 by mlines
It could be as simple as a belt tension/slipping issue if it occurs under "load".

Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses

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06 Jan 2011 20:34 #9007 by JonathonMarshall
sh1t, i feared that. Mind i got very good at doing defender alternators, changed 3 in 2 weeks! broken one for duff one then finally a working one! Hmmmmmmmm friday night after work strip it down, recon sat hopefully!

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06 Jan 2011 21:51 #9017 by facade
If that bolt will come out it is easy.

I am somewhat worried by how tight Suzuki managed to get their bolts, bearing in mind how soft the heads are, same all over the car.
They aren't rusty, which was the main trouble with Landrovers, once they start moving they will undo.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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06 Jan 2011 21:55 #9020 by facade
Can you get the numbers for the bearings please when you strip it down?
Or measure the shaft O.D. the O.D. of the bearing and its thickness.

The reason I was messing with mine was because of an occasional shriek, I fear I have a dry bearing too. Taking it apart to find the bearing sizes when I need to go to work is a bad idea.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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