suspension.

jonesyba420 wrote:

Mick C wrote:

Yellostreak wrote: I think if your planning to put longer shocks on to get more droop then your running the risk of damaging your shock mounts if you get a serious compression.. just put on a 2" lift and be done with it.. you wont be sorry!

+1
All your suspension components have to work together - to get the best out of it you want everything matched up as best you can. A 2" lift on a Jimny is nothing drastic - it will look fine with your 195/80 KL71s and in my experience you should be ok without castor correction on +2". My blue runaraound Jimny has 2" lift along with 195/80 kl71s (and wheel spacers) and it drives bob on

can you post some pics of your blue one so I can see it with lift and tyres,how does it cope with spacers?i know mine in stock form wouldnt handle spacers will rub I recon.

Will try dig out some pics. The only thing I had to do after fitting the wheel spacers was remove the front mudflaps which were fitted at the time - the tyres just caught slightly on the fastener heads when turning. Although it doesn't get used in the rough very often it flexes up ok and doesn't catch.

So the speed at which the shock is compressed affects how firm it is not the position of the compressed shock? If that makes sense.so it doesnt get firmer the more the shock is compressed (at a constant speed) like a progressive spring does?

how do people rate the n2.0 over the es1000's or visa versa?

regarding caster correction on a 2" lift, why do ORA include them in the kit if its not needed? Would a reputable company like ora rip us off saying there needed when in fact there not?!

I have no mud flaps anyway so sounds like I could fit spacers aswell, how often do people find there fitting new wheel bearings after running with spacers?I undersrand they put alot more load on the bearings.

Don't know mate, all I can tell you is the blue one is fine without

I like the RC N2.0 shocks - it's a great set up on the black Jimny, it's a much better ride offroad than I was expecting. Getting the tyre pressure down helps with the ride too.

TomDK wrote: The Rough Country N2.0 shocks are far better for offroading, as they are much harder shocks.

Some users on this forum believe that shocks for offroad needs to be as soft as possible, which is as wrong as it can be. Try go just a little fast over bumps and such, and your shocks will easily bottom out. You'll want shocks that are hard enough to take a beating, without bottoming out all the time. Even more so, if you have a winch fitted.

That's not strictly true though is it? You can have too much damping to the point that the wheel is unable to react quickly enough to the terrain at a given speed effectively stopping the wheel putting power down. There are situations where this is not a problem such as fast road work but fast off road like in comp safari where the vehicle has to have more momentum to compensate for the suspension being too firm is not good, in other lower speed disciplines softer dampers are a real advantage such as rock climbing when soft supple suspension is less likely to throw you off line. Ultimately the resistance to impact is provided by the spring that is what they are for. The dampers are there to moderate the dissipation of the energy held in the spring over time in a controlled and predictable fashion. Tuning one system for all uses is basically impossible.

jonesyba420 wrote: So the speed at which the shock is compressed affects how firm it is not the position of the compressed shock? If that makes sense.so it doesnt get firmer the more the shock is compressed like a progressive spring does?

how do people rate the n2.0 over the es1000's or visa versa?

regarding caster correction on a 2" lift, why do ORA include them in the kit if its not needed? Would a reputable company like ora rip us off saying there needed when in fact there not?!

You can't in any way compare a shock to a spring.
But yes. The position of the compressed shock does not affect how firm it is, al least not with this type of shocks.

N2.0 shocks are much firmer than ES1000. If you want a shock for offroad, get the N2.0.

11/60 wrote:

TomDK wrote: The Rough Country N2.0 shocks are far better for offroading, as they are much harder shocks.

Some users on this forum believe that shocks for offroad needs to be as soft as possible, which is as wrong as it can be. Try go just a little fast over bumps and such, and your shocks will easily bottom out. You'll want shocks that are hard enough to take a beating, without bottoming out all the time. Even more so, if you have a winch fitted.

That's not strictly true though is it? You can have too much damping to the point that the wheel is unable to react quickly enough to the terrain at a given speed effectively stopping the wheel putting power down. There are situations where this is not a problem such as fast road work but fast off road like in comp safari where the vehicle has to have more momentum to compensate for the suspension being too firm is not good, in other lower speed disciplines softer dampers are a real advantage such as rock climbing when soft supple suspension is less likely to throw you off line. Ultimately the resistance to impact is provided by the spring that is what they are for. The dampers are there to moderate the dissipation of the energy held in the spring over time in a controlled and predictable fashion. Tuning one system for all uses is basically impossible.

Of course you're right.
But a shock that can deal with all of that costs a lot more. I mentioned Fox shocks before, which is the way to go if you want shocks that can do that.
For most users on this forum, including me, the N2.0 shock is okay. But there's a reason why the suspension is some of the most expensive parts on a comp truck.

And the N2.0 is in general much better offroad, than softer shocks, like the OME shock, ES1000 or standard suspension.