4WD 4L light indicator how to turn them off
You have a vacuum leak and the hubs are not working properly.
Helijohn does not have vacuum hubs, so the switch mod is a solution to his problem.
How the old system works, and more than likely the push button one too:
When the selector rod in the transfer box moves to 4wd it presses the switch at the top of the transfer box, and closes the contacts.
In an SJ, the switch connects directly to the green light, earths it, and it comes on
In a jimny, the switch goes to a 4wd controller, as does the lamp, but they are not directly connected.
(However, we could simply unplug the controller and skotch-lok the switch wire to the lamp wire rather than mess with the vacuum switch, bet you wish I told you that before helijohn :dry: )
The transfer box switch starts a timer sequence.
First one of the vacuum valves activates and applies vacuum to one side of the hub diaphragms. Air enters the other side, via that air filter, and pushes the hub to the lock position. (If the filter is blocked no air gets in and the hub won't move but you won't know) you should hear a clack-clack noise.
The vacuum is applied for about 5 seconds I think, then the controller checks the signal from the vacuum switch. If the switch is closed, because there is a vacuum in the pipe, the green lamp lights fully. (Joining the switch wires fools the system into thinking there is a vacuum) if there is no vacuum, because of a leak the switch stays open and the lamp goes into flash mode, as the hubs might not be moved into the locked position.
(we could fool the system by simply plugging both rubber pipes going to the hubs, this will stop the light flashing, but any fault with the vacuum valves makes it flash)
After 5 seconds (it may be 10, I can't remember) the vacuum is released and the hubs stay locked.
Helijohn does not need the vacuum system at all, so we plugged the engine supply pipe to prevent future leaks and anything getting sucked into the engine through the open pipes, no other reason.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there

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- helijohn
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facade wrote: (However, we could simply unplug the controller and skotch-lok the switch wire to the lamp wire rather than mess with the vacuum switch, bet you wish I told you that before helijohn :dry: )
Helijohn does not need the vacuum system at all, so we plugged the engine supply pipe to prevent future leaks and anything getting sucked into the engine through the open pipes, no other reason.
I am more than happy with the solution for my problem. It would have been a two minute job if I could have gotten the plug out of the vac switch. In fact I am tempted to remove the remains of the tubing (I have already whipped out the piping under the motor at the wheels anyway) and associated bits - go for broke so to speak - so no but thanks all the same cos I hate skotch-loks!
Way too complex with hoses all over the show, no wonder the previous owner reported having problems. There must be a reason why so many folks go manual!!!!

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- moonoenroute
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helijohn wrote:
facade wrote: (However, we could simply unplug the controller and skotch-lok the switch wire to the lamp wire rather than mess with the vacuum switch, bet you wish I told you that before helijohn :dry: )
Helijohn does not need the vacuum system at all, so we plugged the engine supply pipe to prevent future leaks and anything getting sucked into the engine through the open pipes, no other reason.
I am more than happy with the solution for my problem. It would have been a two minute job if I could have gotten the plug out of the vac switch. In fact I am tempted to remove the remains of the tubing (I have already whipped out the piping under the motor at the wheels anyway) and associated bits - go for broke so to speak - so no but thanks all the same cos I hate skotch-loks!
Way too complex with hoses all over the show, no wonder the previous owner reported having problems. There must be a reason why so many folks go manual!!!!
Hi John wanted to ask, does your Jimny has a mechanical Transfer box? i.e also with custom built lever to shift between 4WD and 4L?
I had an offer from the service shop to change the current auto Transfer box to change it to mechanical transfer box as they said it is much easier to mantain, the current auto transfer box I have is developing cruckling noise, I was wondering how is your jimny built since it doesn't use the the vacuum etc.
When you say going manual does it refer to changing the Transfer box to the manual also with manual lever etc?
How is it compatible wise have you had any trouble after? with compatible issues?
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- helijohn
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moonoenroute wrote:
When you say going manual does it refer to changing the Transfer box to the manual also with manual lever etc?
How is it compatible wise have you had any trouble after? with compatible issues?
No - going manual refers to fitting manually operated hubs as many do who get fed up of the failing vacuum operation - manually changing to engaged from free wheeling and vice versa. I have to exit the vehicle and manually do the hubs. For which reason (being lazy for one) I keep them set to engaged as I do just a few miles pottering to and from the shops. The other reason I keep them set to engaged is I like the diff and such to get a bit of use. And finally, if I need to use 4x4 they are all ready to go. Mind you, as I said elsewhere, if I was going on a 100 mile burn up the motorway I put them to freewheel.
I had info from the last owner that the vacuum system failed miserably.
As for the box, it has the traditional selector lever for going from 2HI through to 4LO - no buttons here.
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