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The king pin replacement scenario

  • helijohn
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20 Jul 2013 19:56 #77705 by helijohn
Replied by helijohn on topic The king pin replacement scenario

mickt wrote: These shims then, are not standard fit, but a "fix" for a condition caused by modifying the vehicle for major off-roading fun. If that is the case then, as this car is for road use only, I suppose the shims are not needed?
Cheers mickt


I didn't bother with them. I've got slightly wide wheels. I get light shimmy at 45mph but it is just regular imbalance and not death wobble; I'll get the wheels properly balanced ASAP.

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  • markyp2000
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20 Jul 2013 21:19 #77709 by markyp2000
Replied by markyp2000 on topic The king pin replacement scenario

mickt wrote: Whilst the freewheel hub is off I have noticed that there is not a lot of grease in it. Should there be and what sort of grease is it?
Cheers, Mickt


A light grease that isnt to thick other wise it wont work correctly

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  • mickt
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22 Jul 2013 10:15 #77837 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic The king pin replacement scenario
GUARDIAN ANGEL-The four bolts holding the hub on to the bearing carrier are specialist bolts as they have a serrated portion just under the head to stop the spring washer rotating. So when you say replace with a higher grade where do you get these specialist bolt from? Or do you mean just use a bolt of the correct length/diameter not worrying about the serrated bit?
FACADE- When you say I have the bearings in wrong way, which way are they in on yours? Looking at the axle with all the bits removed with the upper and lower bearings at 6 & 12 o'clock the lower one sits in the outer race and is lifted out into the axle cavity and the upper one goes into the upper outer race and if not held there would just fall out, on mine. Surely you are not suggesting they are fitted the other way round?
MARKYP2000-What sort of torque figure do you think is required for these bolts? Very tight would seem to be about right for me, just like the brake calliper retaining bolts. They are about the same thread size. What do you think?
Upon getting round to cleaning all the bits for refitment I found the upper bearing had broken up, one of the rollers fell in two whilst cleaning it! The "shim" fitted looked like a bodge as the inner circumference was not a perfect circle. More like it had been filed to fit! Me wonders if fitting that caused the bearing to give up the ghost!
Ah well, onward and upward!

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22 Jul 2013 10:35 #77838 by mlines

mickt wrote: FACADE- When you say I have the bearings in wrong way, which way are they in on yours? Looking at the axle with all the bits removed with the upper and lower bearings at 6 & 12 o'clock the lower one sits in the outer race and is lifted out into the axle cavity and the upper one goes into the upper outer race and if not held there would just fall out, on mine. Surely you are not suggesting they are fitted the other way round?


:blink: :blink:

The one at 6 o'clock (lower) should fall out due to gravity if fitted correctly. The top one (12 o'clock) should still in th race on its own due to gravity

Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses

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22 Jul 2013 16:39 - 22 Jul 2013 16:41 #77881 by facade
Like this





The shim fits where I have coloured in pink, this jams the inner race tighter into the bearing to increase the preload and [strike]make it wear out faster[/strike] provide more resistance to steering wobble.
Top or bottom kingpin, or a shim for both, makes no difference, except the top is easier to do.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)
Attachments:
Last edit: 22 Jul 2013 16:41 by facade.

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  • idiotmobil
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22 Jul 2013 16:49 #77882 by idiotmobil
Replied by idiotmobil on topic The king pin replacement scenario

mickt wrote: GUARDIAN ANGEL-The four bolts holding the hub on to the bearing carrier are specialist bolts as they have a serrated portion just under the head to stop the spring washer rotating. So when you say replace with a higher grade where do you get these specialist bolt from? Or do you mean just use a bolt of the correct length/diameter not worrying about the serrated bit?
FACADE- When you say I have the bearings in wrong way, which way are they in on yours? Looking at the axle with all the bits removed with the upper and lower bearings at 6 & 12 o'clock the lower one sits in the outer race and is lifted out into the axle cavity and the upper one goes into the upper outer race and if not held there would just fall out, on mine. Surely you are not suggesting they are fitted the other way round?
MARKYP2000-What sort of torque figure do you think is required for these bolts? Very tight would seem to be about right for me, just like the brake calliper retaining bolts. They are about the same thread size. What do you think?
Upon getting round to cleaning all the bits for refitment I found the upper bearing had broken up, one of the rollers fell in two whilst cleaning it! The "shim" fitted looked like a bodge as the inner circumference was not a perfect circle. More like it had been filed to fit! Me wonders if fitting that caused the bearing to give up the ghost!
Ah well, onward and upward!

sounds like your king pins are in wrong

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