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The king pin replacement scenario

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20 Jul 2013 08:14 - 20 Jul 2013 08:15 #77619 by facade

mickt wrote: Should the lower pin have one too? Are the washers/shims sized so that the preload is correct and if so how do you check and set the preload?


Shim not required. The damping comes from the drag of the big dust seal.
However, so many people got steering wobble (usually with large tyres or raised suspension) that Suzuki suggested shimming to get the preload to a force of 4.5kg to START the hub turning with a spring balance through the eye of the steering arm on the hub. (The force will go down when it is moving, you are after the highest reading you get)
Shims are available from the shop, along with the bodgers friend- copper washers, fit one of these instead of a shim, old lorry trick.

mickt wrote: It also came to me that the upper bearing is going to be tricky to keep in place whilst you refit the drive shaft. Is the grease able to do this? The lower bearing has gravity on its side!




You have the bearings in backwards somehow. (The races will just fall into the hub)

Dismantle the freewheel hub and take the circlip off the driveshaft, and fit the driveshaft first.
Drop the top race in, hold the lower race whilst you slip the hub assembly onto the CV and swivel.
It is easy to do.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)
Last edit: 20 Jul 2013 08:15 by facade.

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20 Jul 2013 11:14 #77634 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic The king pin replacement scenario
Its a lot easier if you do split though for handling and cleaning!

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20 Jul 2013 11:26 #77635 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic The king pin replacement scenario
I have not removed the old outer race yet of the old bearings. The upper bearing fell out as the hub was removed leaving behind the outer race that will have to be driven out to be replaced with the new outer race. As it dropped out easily it seemed to me that replacing the whole lot will be a bit tricky.
These shims then, are not standard fit, but a "fix" for a condition caused by modifying the vehicle for major off-roading fun. If that is the case then, as this car is for road use only, I suppose the shims are not needed?
Cheers mickt

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20 Jul 2013 13:22 #77647 by markyp2000
Replied by markyp2000 on topic The king pin replacement scenario
To tighten up them 4 bolts correctly you would need to remove the hub nut and hub

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20 Jul 2013 18:14 #77695 by facade
If the stub axle is removed, most likely the halfshaft can be fitted after the swivel hub through the hole. The bearings won't fall out, pack with grease and hold the lower one as you slip the swivel housing on.

The shims should go onto the pin, and are fitted after the hub is assembled and bearings in place.

Just measure the force to turn the hub assembly whn the pins are fitted and tightened up. Suzuki say 4.5 kg (near enough 10lb), if it is way below this, fit a shim to the top pin.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

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20 Jul 2013 19:47 #77702 by mickt
Replied by mickt on topic The king pin replacement scenario
Whilst the freewheel hub is off I have noticed that there is not a lot of grease in it. Should there be and what sort of grease is it?
Cheers, Mickt

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