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Complete rear axle removal

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08 Mar 2020 22:06 #219605 by HUN
Hi all.
My rear axle became really rusty in the last few years. I'd like to take it out and treat its surface properly and possibly I would also get my axle truss welded on whilst it's out. However I'm not sure how to disconnect the brake lines. I suspect it's not as straight forward as at the front axle and I hope it's doable. Can someone point me to the right direction how to separate the rear axle/drum brake/ from the chassis whitout loosing all brake fluid or snapping off the brake line, please? Thanks.

TrailMaster 2" lift kit
JB rear disk brake conversion, all guards, recovery points & battery tray
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers

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08 Mar 2020 22:30 - 08 Mar 2020 22:30 #219606 by facade
Replied by facade on topic Complete rear axle removal
There is a flexible hose to the rear axle, you should be able to disconnect it there, and cap the end of the line. Easier is to remove fluid from the reservoir first and accept that some will come out.
tbh, the bake line is the least of the problems, it is far more work removing the axle than I'd bother with for paint, and you can weld the stiffener in situ. ;)


The abs wires need disconnecting if you have it.
The handbrake cables either disconnect at the lever, and all the support clips underneath, or dismantle the rear brakes and slip a 10mm (I think) ring spanner right over the cable end and it will compress the expanding clip on the cable and release it from the backplate.
The compensator (not there if you have abs) spring needs disconnecting.

Then you have to disconnect the shock absorbers & propshaft, let down the springs and undo the radius arm bolts, and if you blocked the chassis high enough the axle will wheel away, or more likely, remove the wheels to let it down and remove on a trolley jack.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)
Last edit: 08 Mar 2020 22:30 by facade.
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09 Mar 2020 06:38 - 09 Mar 2020 17:44 #219613 by HUN
Replied by HUN on topic Complete rear axle removal
Thank you for the advice.

The more I work on my car the more often I have to realise that there is always something else on the top of my original task which needs to be sorted aswell due to the age of my car.
I guess it will suddenly turn into a "Let's fix also this here and that there" job and I will end up rust treating and undersealing the whole underbody of my car :) ...as usual :)

TrailMaster 2" lift kit
JB rear disk brake conversion, all guards, recovery points & battery tray
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers
Last edit: 09 Mar 2020 17:44 by HUN.

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22 Mar 2020 20:34 #220161 by HUN
Replied by HUN on topic Complete rear axle removal
Right people, the weather is great, the sun is out! And finally my rear axle is as well!
What a bloody task it is! This job just got bigger than ever! Not because of lots of parts to remove. Nooo, no, no. That was a piece of cake. I expected a lot of labour and I could do everything what facade suggested except the very first step!
Removing the bloody brake line from the flexible hose! Cleaned the nut with the wire brush, sprayed with WD40 then gently tried to undo it using an M10 size spanner. Rounded off...
I have extended Goodridge braided brake hoses installed at front and rear. They were replaced by a mechanic 3 years ago hence I thought removing them will be easy. I was wrong. I ended up using a bloody angle grinder and cutting the rigid brakeline just after the bracket so a small piece is still attached to the flexible hose...now I need to replace the brakeline also. Anyway...
Next task was to remove the handbrake cable. Off side went well. Near side was rusted and jammed. Took me half an hour to get it out.
When finished I decided to sort this crap out for ever hence quickly ordered a full disk conversion kit from Jimmybits. Has anyone installed this before? Is it really a bolt on kit? Any known disadvantage?

TrailMaster 2" lift kit
JB rear disk brake conversion, all guards, recovery points & battery tray
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers

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23 Mar 2020 00:11 #220172 by ahtr
Replied by ahtr on topic Complete rear axle removal
Rear disc conversion is one of the best mods I've done. It's all bolt on, easier to work on and better performance than drums. No disadvantages in my opinion!

My green laner build
2003 Jimny - M16 engine - RockLobster - Winch - Snorkel - 30x9.5 Maxxis MT-764 tyres on 15x7 ET-7 offset wheels - 4" lift - Rear disc conversion

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23 Mar 2020 04:23 #220175 by HUN
Replied by HUN on topic Complete rear axle removal
Cheers for the good news ahtr!
Does the full bundle kit have a replacement brakeline to be installed on the axle? I completly removed the old one so I'm wondering if I need to source a brake line repair kit as well?
I saw this video about doing the same job on a Gen4 Jimny.

They kept the back plate in place after conversion. Just made a cutout for the brake caliper.
Did you do something similar?

TrailMaster 2" lift kit
JB rear disk brake conversion, all guards, recovery points & battery tray
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers

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23 Mar 2020 09:21 #220182 by ahtr
Replied by ahtr on topic Complete rear axle removal
I didn't buy the complete kit (sourced my own calipers, discs and pads). But if you've bought the complete kit it should have the brake hose, I used some 7mm rubber lined stainless P clips to secure the hose along axle. Like THESE

You have to cut the back plate off, that was probably the only tricky part of the swap.

My green laner build
2003 Jimny - M16 engine - RockLobster - Winch - Snorkel - 30x9.5 Maxxis MT-764 tyres on 15x7 ET-7 offset wheels - 4" lift - Rear disc conversion

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23 Mar 2020 17:14 #220191 by Riccy
Replied by Riccy on topic Complete rear axle removal
Good choice on the brake conversion kit. it works well and make maintenance loads easier in the future.

I would be tempted to try and keep some sort of backing plate for the brakes if you can. I have put some front ones on for my rear floating kit (but thats a fair bit different to the Jimnybits kit). They seem to help with pad wear by keeping some of the muck out.

The next thing is to brace and paint that axle while its out. Axle 'gussets' are cheap and a worthwhile thing to weld on. Ive also discovered that you can weld on the Jimnybits shock guards for some extra protection as well as added strength to the radius arm brackets of the axle case.

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 4.3 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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28 Mar 2020 17:43 - 29 Mar 2020 11:34 #220368 by HUN
Replied by HUN on topic Complete rear axle removal
Yeah, I was planning to brace the housing...I have a GYS SmartMig 162 machine which works on single phase socket but I had to realise that my fuse in the garage is not up to this kind of task :dry: As an absolute beginner in DIY welding I was practising to get the right settings but once I turned up the settings which theoretically suitable for 3mm+ steel it had cut off the fuse. :angry: And in the current situation I cannot even take it anywhere to get the job done. :( so likely I will need to take it apart again, once I could learn how weld this thick stuff. I guess saving anything from my backplate is not possible...:whistle:

TrailMaster 2" lift kit
JB rear disk brake conversion, all guards, recovery points & battery tray
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers
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Last edit: 29 Mar 2020 11:34 by HUN.

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29 Mar 2020 11:41 #220406 by yakuza
Replied by yakuza on topic Complete rear axle removal
if you depress the brake pedal half way in and lock it with a stick or something so it stays there you will close the reservoir from the brake line.
Put a clamp on the brake line hose and you will not loose the fluid and you will only have to bleed from the clamp and back.
I do this every time i service the brakes, change the caliper or anything disconnecting brake lines.
reattach everything before releasing the pedal.

Have to admit I once forgot about the clamp and drove off thinking the brakes felt strange...

2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.
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29 Mar 2020 11:47 #220407 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic Complete rear axle removal
That's an intelligent idea, why didn't I think of doing this when I did my flex lines? Cheers for sharing.

Dreadnaught (black 2011)

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30 Mar 2020 21:53 #220483 by HUN
Replied by HUN on topic Complete rear axle removal
Thanks for the advice. I should have asked about these things before I butchered everything! :laugh:

TrailMaster 2" lift kit
JB rear disk brake conversion, all guards, recovery points & battery tray
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

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