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2 questions - AC parts and lockers

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07 Aug 2020 19:57 #226264 by me101
Hi, hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Had a call from the garage, all is not well. Went in for air con regas, headlight check (front panel been replaced), and dodgy noise in the rear. Only thing sorted is the headlights - they were fine. Cannot re-gas the AC due to the 2 valves needing replacement (think they said a high and low pressure valve?), 1 was leaking. Are these Suzuki only parts or can I get them cheaper? The rear end noise, turns out the diff is goosed. So, open to the idea of a locking diff. Car is mainly used on light lanes, not really a pay and play monster. So, do I go for an LSD, or a full locker? Not going for air locker, not really got anywhere for the pump, and not having in the car, so thinking of an electric locker - what are your thoughts?
Cheers

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  • Lambert
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07 Aug 2020 20:28 #226271 by Lambert
Personal preference is for the quaif helical diff available from jimnybits. Fit and forget. You just drive and its there all the time helping. I drove Snipers Tread Lightly before the back half fell off and was immediately taken by the smooth but positive application of traction. Its near the top of my Christmas list.

Dreadnaught (black 2011)

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07 Aug 2020 20:47 #226277 by Soeley
What effect/difference does it make to on road driving?

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07 Aug 2020 20:58 #226280 by Lambert
It promotes a tightened line in speed cornering and generally makes the whole vehicle more planted and predictable. In contrast my Dreadnaught is as planted with the low track springs on but doesn't have the same traction especially on really tight uphill sections where you can expect to unload the inside tyre. It is also much more progressive than a lunch box unlocker that I have driven, that was not nice on the road.

Dreadnaught (black 2011)

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08 Aug 2020 07:42 #226311 by me101
Thanks, just priced up the Quaif one, the e-locker seems about £150 cheaper. Not sure I need extra traction on the tarmac - the rear doesn't exactly break away under the high power!

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09 Aug 2020 07:52 #226375 by sniper
I've had the Quaife ATB diff for a while and think it's a top piece of kit. It does so much for the chassis dynamic, it makes it a really drivable little car.

The standard Jimny chassis is sloppy and slow to react, gives next to no feedback (other than skipping about) and has no "feel". Making it a difficult car to drive quickly. (There's a Jimny breaker local to me and virtually every car has been on it's side...)

The ATB gives the car a "lift off oversteer" (drivingfast.net/wp-content/uploads/oversteer.png) chassis that feels just like an old Ford Escort. Not the best handling car ever and not the easiest to drive fast, but very familiar to me and I love it.

So long as you are pushing on and have a little more throttle to give (tightens your line) if needed. It's a go-cart.... I can out handle any other 4x4 and most saloons on tight and twisty B roads...... Not all down to the diff, it's a built car and the diff works as part of the package but the diff is the bit that wakes up the rest of the parts... Tyres, suspension, brakes are all affected by it.

The Jimny chassis will always be difficult to drive fast because it is so short, when the back end brakes away, you need to be expecting it, in order to catch it. Surprise departures are fearsomely quick and the steering is painfully slow.....

So you see, it does a bit more than help out in a muddy lane. A lot more than a "locker" but it won't help when cross axle lifts a wheel, where lockers will.

There is a big negative....... GRIP....... When grip is low, the diff can promote slip in tight bends. Small roundabouts and T junction rights have to be given a little respect or you will be putting the arse end out. Very predictable but it can be embarrassing, especially when the only safe thing to do is power through the slide.....:blush: :blush: :blush:

sniper

Truck Cab tray back, 1600 VVT, R7ME gearbox & manual transfer, Quaife ATB diff, 4-2-1 manifold, Tony Banks 2" stainless exhaust, K&N panel filter, Mobil One oil, Eibach springs, AVO adjustable dampers, Limit straps, BFG 16" Km2 tyres, Drilled Grooved disks, EBC Greenstuff pads, Full breather kit...

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09 Aug 2020 08:15 #226376 by CC Baxter
With all this talk of diffs (quite exciting) I missed your question on aircon parts.
High and low side valves can in theory be optained from any AC specialist (like office block installation people) but you will need the correct pressure specifiations. If you manage to get those you will then have to make brackets to mount them and then pay for pump down/recharge.
In my view not worth it. A pair of valves from the breakers yard (from as newer model as possible) sounds much more tempting. Talk to an auto AC specialist and see what they can offer. Chris

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09 Aug 2020 14:34 #226399 by me101
Sniper - it is more to overcome cross axle situations, so I think that makes my mind up. Thanks.
CC Baxter - The breakers might be a good idea, I thought I would have to get new ones. Cheers.

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09 Aug 2020 16:02 #226408 by Roger Fairclough
I had a gear style limited slip diff on my Landcruiser that transmitted about 85% torque when pushed and yes it was very useful on even dry twisty roads but if you are after control on axle twisters then "left foot braking " may be your answer, especially as it's completely free.

The technique goes like this. You are cross axled, opposite wheels are in a trough and spinning uselessly.You transfer your left foot to the footbrake and apply pressure whilst gradually increasing power. The braking effort splits equally between the rear brakes and traction is restored and out you pop.

Does it work-oh yes. If it sounds familiar it's what traction control is all about. Once you are out of the hole, feet off everything to let the motor settle and then away you go.

Roger

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09 Aug 2020 19:47 #226424 by me101
I know about left foot braking (not great at it!), and if my diff wasn't in need of replacement, I would not be parting with my cash. But, not wanting to put a 2nd hand standard diff in when I have the option to go better. (Well, it is an option as long as she doesn't know!!)

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10 Aug 2020 07:39 #226442 by maverick
I have a set of Kaisers (front and Rear) www.jimnybits.com/jimny/drivetrain/suzuk...ocker-by-kaiser.html

I used to run a Detroit Lockrite in Rear Diffential, but they just chew the enfeds off your shafts and bugeer uo your Diff.

Think of a Kaiser as a poor mans ARB.

Jalapeño, IISY?

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10 Aug 2020 09:11 #226447 by Roger Fairclough
The Detroit Lockrite was locked for normal straight line driving and unlocked when you went round bends. The small print mentioned that driving habits would need to accommodate it's somewhat strange behaviour. Due to the way it unlocked and then locked back excessive wear was possible.
Just my opinion.

Roger

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