2 questions - AC parts and lockers

Hi, hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Had a call from the garage, all is not well. Went in for air con regas, headlight check (front panel been replaced), and dodgy noise in the rear. Only thing sorted is the headlights - they were fine. Cannot re-gas the AC due to the 2 valves needing replacement (think they said a high and low pressure valve?), 1 was leaking. Are these Suzuki only parts or can I get them cheaper? The rear end noise, turns out the diff is goosed. So, open to the idea of a locking diff. Car is mainly used on light lanes, not really a pay and play monster. So, do I go for an LSD, or a full locker? Not going for air locker, not really got anywhere for the pump, and not having in the car, so thinking of an electric locker - what are your thoughts?
Cheers

What effect/difference does it make to on road driving?

Thanks, just priced up the Quaif one, the e-locker seems about £150 cheaper. Not sure I need extra traction on the tarmac - the rear doesn't exactly break away under the high power!

I've had the Quaife ATB diff for a while and think it's a top piece of kit. It does so much for the chassis dynamic, it makes it a really drivable little car.

The standard Jimny chassis is sloppy and slow to react, gives next to no feedback (other than skipping about) and has no "feel". Making it a difficult car to drive quickly. (There's a Jimny breaker local to me and virtually every car has been on it's side...)

The ATB gives the car a "lift off oversteer" (drivingfast.net/wp-content/uploads/oversteer.png) chassis that feels just like an old Ford Escort. Not the best handling car ever and not the easiest to drive fast, but very familiar to me and I love it.

So long as you are pushing on and have a little more throttle to give (tightens your line) if needed. It's a go-cart.... I can out handle any other 4x4 and most saloons on tight and twisty B roads...... Not all down to the diff, it's a built car and the diff works as part of the package but the diff is the bit that wakes up the rest of the parts... Tyres, suspension, brakes are all affected by it.

The Jimny chassis will always be difficult to drive fast because it is so short, when the back end brakes away, you need to be expecting it, in order to catch it. Surprise departures are fearsomely quick and the steering is painfully slow.....

So you see, it does a bit more than help out in a muddy lane. A lot more than a "locker" but it won't help when cross axle lifts a wheel, where lockers will.

There is a big negative....... GRIP....... When grip is low, the diff can promote slip in tight bends. Small roundabouts and T junction rights have to be given a little respect or you will be putting the arse end out. Very predictable but it can be embarrassing, especially when the only safe thing to do is power through the slide.....

sniper

With all this talk of diffs (quite exciting) I missed your question on aircon parts.
High and low side valves can in theory be optained from any AC specialist (like office block installation people) but you will need the correct pressure specifiations. If you manage to get those you will then have to make brackets to mount them and then pay for pump down/recharge.
In my view not worth it. A pair of valves from the breakers yard (from as newer model as possible) sounds much more tempting. Talk to an auto AC specialist and see what they can offer. Chris

Sniper - it is more to overcome cross axle situations, so I think that makes my mind up. Thanks.
CC Baxter - The breakers might be a good idea, I thought I would have to get new ones. Cheers.

I had a gear style limited slip diff on my Landcruiser that transmitted about 85% torque when pushed and yes it was very useful on even dry twisty roads but if you are after control on axle twisters then "left foot braking " may be your answer, especially as it's completely free.

The technique goes like this. You are cross axled, opposite wheels are in a trough and spinning uselessly.You transfer your left foot to the footbrake and apply pressure whilst gradually increasing power. The braking effort splits equally between the rear brakes and traction is restored and out you pop.

Does it work-oh yes. If it sounds familiar it's what traction control is all about. Once you are out of the hole, feet off everything to let the motor settle and then away you go.

Roger

I know about left foot braking (not great at it!), and if my diff wasn't in need of replacement, I would not be parting with my cash. But, not wanting to put a 2nd hand standard diff in when I have the option to go better. (Well, it is an option as long as she doesn't know!!)

I have a set of Kaisers (front and Rear) www.jimnybits.com/jimny/drivetrain/suzuk...ocker-by-kaiser.html

I used to run a Detroit Lockrite in Rear Diffential, but they just chew the enfeds off your shafts and bugeer uo your Diff.

Think of a Kaiser as a poor mans ARB.

The Detroit Lockrite was locked for normal straight line driving and unlocked when you went round bends. The small print mentioned that driving habits would need to accommodate it's somewhat strange behaviour. Due to the way it unlocked and then locked back excessive wear was possible.
Just my opinion.

Roger