what are the best basic mods

darthloachie wrote:

TomDK wrote:

As you normally would do. Don't know if I didn't express myself correctly on how the lockright works. But it locks when torque is applied, either forward or in reverse. Meaning roundabouts needs to be with clutch disengaged/down.

sorry but thats a load of rubbish
lockrights work by being locked unless it senses a difference in rotational speed between the two halfshafts (ie going round a corner) when it unlocks with a click (or a very loud clunk if not set up correctly lol)
you don't need to do anything special with the clutch for roundabouts or corners

however on show or ice you can become a drifting god (as Hammond would say)

Sorry. But no. You're very wrong. Just looking at the lockright pretty much explains how it works.
www.offroaders.com/tech/lock-right-locker.htm

Having owned a lockright equipped jimny for 6+ years I have never had to dip the clutch to go around a corner or a roundabout,
It will unlock by the act of slowing for a corner thus reducing torque to the locker, A much bigger impact on driving style is the 4-5" lift and no anti roll bar

I've ordered a ball and pin hitch and a light bar. There is a lot of deer around the farm so the more light the better.

kirkynut wrote:

How on earth did we get to suggesting a rear locker for a slightly tricky access road? I'm sure your Jimny will cope exactly as it is now!

If you want to mod it slightly then of course the trickiness of said road could be used as an excuse for spending the money! In which case a 2" lift and some 215/75/15 new mud terrain tyres will be just the ticket! You only need all terrains by the sounds of it but when you look at want and need they are very different things!

Kirkynut

+ 1

How on earth did we get to suggesting a rear locker for a slightly tricky access road? I'm sure your Jimny will cope exactly as it is now!

If you want to mod it slightly then of course the trickiness of said road could be used as an excuse for spending the money! In which case a 2" lift and some 215/75/15 new mud terrain tyres will be just the ticket! You only need all terrains by the sounds of it but when you look at want and need they are very different things!

Kirkynut

Well said that man!

Looks are important lol Im going to order a 2" lift kit on payday I need new shocks anyway. Then if I decide to start driving harvester tracks then I'll go for more mods

TomDK wrote:

darthloachie wrote:

TomDK wrote:

As you normally would do. Don't know if I didn't express myself correctly on how the lockright works. But it locks when torque is applied, either forward or in reverse. Meaning roundabouts needs to be with clutch disengaged/down.

sorry but thats a load of rubbish
lockrights work by being locked unless it senses a difference in rotational speed between the two halfshafts (ie going round a corner) when it unlocks with a click (or a very loud clunk if not set up correctly lol)
you don't need to do anything special with the clutch for roundabouts or corners

however on show or ice you can become a drifting god (as Hammond would say)

Sorry. But no. You're very wrong. Just looking at the lockright pretty much explains how it works.
www.offroaders.com/tech/lock-right-locker.htm

Completely off topic now, but....

A properly set-up lock right is definitely NOT always locked when on the gas. By default it sends all the torque to the slowest moving wheel and allows the faster wheel to 'freewheel'. It only locks when the speed of both wheels is equal.
The bit people struggle to understand is the hole around the diff pins, which is oversized and ramped.


The spacing in the entire system should be set-up such that if the teeth on one side are engaged, the other side has space for the teeth to pass each other. The diff will only lock when there is resistance at each side of the axle and the wheel speeds are the same, at which point the pin will be pushing on both ramps equally and the teeth will engage with both side gears. As soon as traction is re-gained and the load decreases on one side, the pin no longer pushes on the ramp on that side of the diff and the oversize hole allows the side gear to disengage.

It's a very crude system as it cannot balance the torque between wheels like an open diff- it delivers 100% of the torque to the slowest wheel until it slips, at which point drive is sent to both wheels. But it is effective and cheap.

All jimnys left the factories more than adequate to do what they were designed to do