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what are the best basic mods
- ewanm77
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13 May 2016 21:17 #166757
by Busta
Completely off topic now, but....
A properly set-up lock right is definitely NOT always locked when on the gas. By default it sends all the torque to the slowest moving wheel and allows the faster wheel to 'freewheel'. It only locks when the speed of both wheels is equal.
The bit people struggle to understand is the hole around the diff pins, which is oversized and ramped.
The spacing in the entire system should be set-up such that if the teeth on one side are engaged, the other side has space for the teeth to pass each other. The diff will only lock when there is resistance at each side of the axle and the wheel speeds are the same, at which point the pin will be pushing on both ramps equally and the teeth will engage with both side gears. As soon as traction is re-gained and the load decreases on one side, the pin no longer pushes on the ramp on that side of the diff and the oversize hole allows the side gear to disengage.
It's a very crude system as it cannot balance the torque between wheels like an open diff- it delivers 100% of the torque to the slowest wheel until it slips, at which point drive is sent to both wheels. But it is effective and cheap.
Replied by Busta on topic what are the best basic mods
TomDK wrote:
darthloachie wrote:
TomDK wrote: As you normally would do. Don't know if I didn't express myself correctly on how the lockright works. But it locks when torque is applied, either forward or in reverse. Meaning roundabouts needs to be with clutch disengaged/down.
sorry but thats a load of rubbish
lockrights work by being locked unless it senses a difference in rotational speed between the two halfshafts (ie going round a corner) when it unlocks with a click (or a very loud clunk if not set up correctly lol)
you don't need to do anything special with the clutch for roundabouts or corners
however on show or ice you can become a drifting god (as Hammond would say)
Sorry. But no. You're very wrong. Just looking at the lockright pretty much explains how it works.
www.offroaders.com/tech/lock-right-locker.htm
Completely off topic now, but....
A properly set-up lock right is definitely NOT always locked when on the gas. By default it sends all the torque to the slowest moving wheel and allows the faster wheel to 'freewheel'. It only locks when the speed of both wheels is equal.
The bit people struggle to understand is the hole around the diff pins, which is oversized and ramped.
The spacing in the entire system should be set-up such that if the teeth on one side are engaged, the other side has space for the teeth to pass each other. The diff will only lock when there is resistance at each side of the axle and the wheel speeds are the same, at which point the pin will be pushing on both ramps equally and the teeth will engage with both side gears. As soon as traction is re-gained and the load decreases on one side, the pin no longer pushes on the ramp on that side of the diff and the oversize hole allows the side gear to disengage.
It's a very crude system as it cannot balance the torque between wheels like an open diff- it delivers 100% of the torque to the slowest wheel until it slips, at which point drive is sent to both wheels. But it is effective and cheap.
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- jerry
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