G13BB 1999 Jimny radiator hose ID

Spot on Lambert, the cluster temp gauge sits around the middle of the gauge sweep, if it moves up, its like a runaway train and you have cooked the engine. Well that was my experience. Thinking of what RainerK was saying, probably a set of extractors would help dissipate (extract) the hot gases more quickly and keep the head and engine temp running cooler. Is that a fair theory.

Hi Owl,
Not 100% sure of your vision, but the existing cooling system is more than adequate to keep the engine temperature under control, just as Suzuki designed it.
Are you having overheating issues?
If you are having problems it's because one of the system components is at fault or failing. They all need to work together inorder to maintain the correct operating temperature range. The components are many, but from experience the heat exchanger (radiator) is an item that is usually neglected on older vehicles. They stop working efficiently, blocked or damaged matrix, blocked coolant pipes and corrosion of the matrix all conspire to prevent it from cooling the engine.
Have a feel of the core when the thermostat opens, it should go from cold to hot all over the matrix (no cool spots) instantly, it should be too hot to touch for any period of time. If you have cool spots or it takes a few minutes to get hot I would investigate it's condition further.

Sorry if you have already been down this route, but in my opinion there should be no reason to improve the standard cooling system if everything is in prime condition.

If everything is ok and you just want a temperature gauge go for it, but as it's been said, they ruin the drive as you just spend your time worrying about 1degC hotter than yesterday :laugh:
All the best
Mike

Thanks Mike, I have a new koyo radiator and new hoses and its not overheating but the last episode of overheating came about from pin hole in top hose, going up a mountain, cooked the engine. I saw the temp gauge move like a freight train from normal to boiled and in a matter of 15 seconds all was too late from there. Alloy block and alloy head …..blown head gasket, tow home, top end rebuild.

Ive repaired it, but the trauma lingers on haha, I need cooling sys therapy.

Seriously over here its hotter than hell in summer, and cold as an esky full of ice in winter. I think the engine could use cooling assistance in summer

To make it more sinister, my cluster light(s) don't work on the right hand side where the temp gauge is, so I cant see it at night. So the worry is amplified in that situation. A lit up gauge could be therapeutic.

Ah - understand your concerns.
I guess it was loss of system pressure resulting in localised head boiling and over temperature. It's a pity no one makes a simple over temp / under pressure alarm, a loud buzzer is better than a gauge.
Have you considered a product like Evans waterless coolant? It will not boil even if the pressure fails, so in theory it will keep you going even if the radiator cap falls off. It's expensive unfortunately, and it's not as efficient as water / glycol for heat transfer. This means the engine runs slightly hotter in theory under normal conditions. A lot of people use it in the classic car world, but I personally have never been convinced it's worth the extra cost. Just throwing it out for consideration, not a recommendation.

www.evanscoolants.co.uk/

All the best
Mike

Mike thanks again, in the old days of the series LR, we had a lot of problems with fuel delivery in the hot weather used to get vapour lock I think it was called, the rover would bunny hop and stop, wouldn't start until cooled down. Point of that was there was a solution.

The fix was to fit an electric fuel pump 3psi or under, I used one off an British car, SU fuel pump and never had a problem since fitting that.

Was wondering if there possibly could be a fit-out for a manual override switch for the thermatic fan or a more maybe a more efficient electric fan to enhance air flow over the engine? Might be worth quizzing the local radiator expert., Theres a knowledgeable cooling sys specialist close by I'll talk to him about what can be of help if anything. There is a lot of radiators coming out of Ch-eye-na but are appalling quality and most wont fit. Got 2 in the shed.

For anyone interested 28mm would be a close measurement of the inner diameter of the top hose. If you buy an inline adaptor the 28mm is the one to get.