A place for more technical discussions. Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.
So for some reason my VIN is not found on that website. Any one know how to tell what jimny i have otherwise? all i know is the seatbelt tag says 2003, its an M13 engine with steel wheels not alloys.
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
Automatic transmissions have a failsafe mode.
If there are problems they will generally only work in 2nd and reverse. If there are problems inside the valve body is designed to do that.
Slipping is usually caused by a worn brake or clutch surface. These surfaces wear just like the brakes on your car. In an autobox when something starts to wear like this the particles that have worn or broke off start to stick in things (like the valves and valve body).
When you changed the fluid you replaced the fluid with new stuff with less particles in it which improved things but the worn parts would still be giving off more particles than they should as they broke up. It sounds like your transmission has got to the point where something is sticking to the point failsafe mode kicks in. They are all pretty much the same inside.
I realise why you think it is electrical but you have to focus on what has happened already.
The electrical side has worked fine up until now but your transmission has had known issues which will have released deposits all the way through the transmission. Looking at it like that, a transmission problem seems most likely!
If you find someone to flush the transmission or you change the trans fluid it MIGHT improve things short term but in reality its just a quick fix.
In my opinion the transmission needs to come out, be stripped, throughly cleaned, worn part replaced and rebuilt.
To give you an idea how clean it needs to be, a friend of mine who rebuilds automatic transmissions all day long for coaches has recently bought a demagitizing machine to demagnitize solenoids in the valves just to get a few more particles out because that small amount can affect how the solenoid functions.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but if you need help, if you want to send a couple of airline tickets over I'll borrow my mates machine and grab some tools from work...
yea i came to the conclusion i am gonna rebuild it, change clutch bands, seals etc. so now i am trying to figure out the transmission code so i can order the right rebuild kit from cobra transmissions.
If you are under the transmission facing the front of the car the id number is on the left hand side of the transmission towards the rear of the housing.
Its hard to say what the code you need would be, most of the manuals you can access in the UK are for UK or European models where autos arent as popular.
Japanese and US markets prefer autos so there are more likely to be different models of transmission.
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