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Differential bearing replacements

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08 Aug 2017 20:22 #183254 by Bosanek
My Jimmy has recently developed a repetitive (cyclic) squealing sound coming from the rear differential casing whenever the vehicle is slowly moving and the gearbox is connected to the engine (in gear, clutch pedal depressed).

I suspect that the diff bearing towards the rear propeler shaft is worn. But who knows until the entire diff assembly gets removed for inspection .....


You can imagine my thrill and joy now, especially being in a 3rd world country where no Jimnys can be found in vehicle junk yards.


Has anyone else had a similar issue? What else inside the differential casing could produce the same symptoms?

Does it pay off to replace this bearing? What else to replace once the differential and the rear halfshafts are out?

And most importantly, what are the specifications of all the rear differential bearings?
I need to buy replacement ones possibly from SKF, Timken or Koyo. I suppose that Suzuki OEM ones cost more than my entire 10 year old car.

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08 Aug 2017 20:38 #183255 by mlines

Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses

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09 Aug 2017 13:52 #183272 by Bosanek
Thank you Martin for the links. I don't recall seing those bearings in your shop before, so I suppose that they are a recent addition.

Can these two bearings be replaced without removing the differential assembly from the housing? Or at least the outer bearing? If not, I suppose that I will have to remove both rear halfaxles and the entire differential assembly first?

Is there anything else that would make sense to replace once the differential assembly is already "on the table"?

I've read somewhere that a badly worn diff pinion bearing usually causes excessive wear of some other (much nastier) component in the differential assembly. Any experiences on that?

I have also read somewhere that it is rather tricky to assemble a differential back together, as some special adjustments are necessary to avoid poor seatment of the components and subsequent excessive wear. Any advices on that? I would not personally perform the job, but I want to be acquainted with the pelicularities in order to properly supervise the work ...

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09 Aug 2017 16:54 #183278 by Riccy
Having recently had my diffs apart for air lockers i can say that its tricky, but not impossible. I dont know if you have to remove the crown gear and planetary assembly to get to the bearing on the input shaft?

I remember seeing it in the workshop manual and looked do-able. If you have to remove the crown and planetary, then you will need to mess around setting the 'backlash' again to get it balanced properly. Its not hard but you need a special dial indicator to measure it. Most of the special tools in the manual are not needed.

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
The following user(s) said Thank You: Dexy

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11 Aug 2017 13:02 #183352 by Bosanek
Thank you for the information.

Can you describe that dial indicator a bit more - what's that?

Two reputable mechanics with experience in servicing all terrain vehicles told me that it's a rather risky endeavor to repair a worn differential assembly.
They say that even if just the bearing(s) are worn, some other gear(s) in the differential assembly usually get "scarred" by worn bearings over time. The scars don't matter until you put in new bearings, which then can't be properly matched with the scarred gears. The result is that the differential will be noisy after the repair even with new bearings. This then leads to premature wear of the assembly afterwards.

Even if the gears are not scarred, they say it's a demanding job to properly assemble the differential (to set everything just right), driving the repair cost high.

Due to all this, they recommend a full replacement of the differential assembly from a vehicle junk yard. Replacement of the entire differential assembly can be done without dismantling either the old or the new assembly (just take the halfshafts out, take the old diff assembly out, put a new diff assembly in, put the halfshafts in).


However, the transmission ratio of the new differential has to be the same as the old one.

Now, as I am a lucky owner of a diesel (DDiS) Jimny, I suspect that the transmission ratio of my differential is not the same as in petrol Jimnys.

I need help in determining the ratio of my differential and to find compatible ones from petrol Jimnys!

I know that DDiS Jimnys have never been sold in UK, but if someone has proper access to Suzuki's technical database, they might be able to help me out. I would highly appreciate the help indeed!

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11 Aug 2017 17:43 #183353 by Riccy
Yes, Your welcome and more than helpful yourself!

The dial indicator is a simple but precise device for measuring pressure on a pin-point. Below is a link to the one i bought for the job:

www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cm220-dial-test-indicator/

Also yes, your mechanic is correct about it being much easier to just swap the entire unit, and the worn gear scenario. To fit my ARB lockers into the diff meant removing the crown gear and swapping onto the new ARB planetary unit. I retained all the bearings and other bits, just changed the planetary really, took about a day for the first one then half a day on the second! The job you need to do is that plus more to get to the bearing. The K9K diesel engine (from renault) is fairly common in europe. It does have different ratios to UK jimnys in the diff. See the 'final drive' column in this wiki link:

www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?tit...erential_Information

Do you know what gearbox code is fitted to your diesel jimny? R72 with a elec t-box would have had 4.3 diffs in the UK with a 1.3 petrol.

Also do you have the workshop manual on PDF? its pretty good about describing the 'setting the backlash' business, similar for all diffs.

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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