Lockrite
- Bigchridy
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If anyone has had any experiances with lockrite diff locks any info would be appreciated. Also any pics of fitting a lockrite would be helpful.
Cheers
Chris
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- darthloachie
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Don't have any photos of fitting but I do have a lockrite fitted to the rear axle.
It is pretty effective piece of kit It is only occasionally I need to use the front ARB and can get up hills that some l*ndr*v*rs get stuck on

Its also pretty tough as it has been fitted for quite a few years.
It is automatic so no need to switch any thing on but you can fell it pushing the truck straight on some times when you are doing a tight turn on very slippery mud
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- Bigchridy
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How come you have an arb on the front? Can you fit lockrites to the front axle? I will be buying the rear locker 1st to try and keep costs down but I will be getting a front one eventually!! From what you have said I take it I'll get away with just a rear locker for a while?darthloachie wrote: Hi
Don't have any photos of fitting but I do have a lockrite fitted to the rear axle.
It is pretty effective piece of kit It is only occasionally I need to use the front ARB and can get up hills that some l*ndr*v*rs get stuck on
Its also pretty tough as it has been fitted for quite a few years.
It is automatic so no need to switch any thing on but you can fell it pushing the truck straight on some times when you are doing a tight turn on very slippery mud

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- darthloachie
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Kirkynut
The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.
My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0
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A Lockrite locker is always locked, until the pressure causes it to unlock and release wind up. Therefore as you corner with it you can feel it unlocking and can hear it, varying from a "click" on a well set up one through to a banging on a poorly set up one. This means you always know its there and have to adopt your driving style a bit.
ARB/KAM lockers are manually controlled through Air or Electric operation. This means you can decide when select them or not. This has an advantage for on-road driving where you can select them off and not know they are there. Equally you can also switch them off when off-roading when a locked diff can cause you more issues than it prevents. For example, on a site I go to there are a number of chalk slopes which are like ice when wet. As you climb them you do not want the front of the car to start slipping around sideways leaving you across the slope! With a rear locker fitted both my back wheels are nicely driven meaning that it spins both rear wheels on the slippery slope which makes the rear of the Jimny snake around, forcing the front to start slipping sideways (gulp). Therefore on this site I often have the locker off to make the rear stay in line with the front.
Having driven both I would always go for ARM/KAM style if you can afford them. Lockrites are cheaper but can mean you lose everyday drivability.
Martin
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
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