Copper brake lines

I am looking at replacing my corroded brake lines. After reading any post I could find on the subject I wanted to ask a few questions before i order the needed parts.

As I understand it I can either reuse the unions if they are in good enough condition or replace with M10 x 1 fully threaded bolts similar to these.

Looking at the kits available online I will get these corresponding unions.




Am I right in ordering 3/16 copper pipe manufactured to the correct british standard that can take pressures up to 127 bar?
At the same time I will have to replace my corroded brake hoses, will the ss braided hoses from the bigjimny store be fine for a non lifted jimny?

Thanks for any help

I'm interested in seeing any replies, as i want to do the same - but how do you do it, and how do you reflange the pipe after removing the old ones!??

Cupra-nickel pipe is usually used these days and isn't much more expensive, any half decent flaring tool will be able to form the flares, Suzuki usually use a double flare so its a little bit trickier but it shouldn't take too many practise attempts to get them correct. Some of the cheap tools leave a ridge on the flare so I usually take that off with a scraper.
The fittings are M10 x 1 so those should be OK, I wouldn't bother trying to reuse any fittings, they aren't expensive.

Make sure you get the fully threaded male ends like your picture.
Standard ones have no thread on the 3mm nearest the flange, and only go in about 2 turns as the suzuki female fittings are very shallow.

Make sure that you pipe up the compensator valve over the back axle correctly, there is a diagram in the manual.

The only difficulty is removing the fragile clips that hold the pipes along the chassis from front to back, I did my brake and fuel pipes at the same time, took all day with trying not to break the clips.

Thanks for the tips on materials and flaring correctly, makes the task alot easier when you know what to expect.

I had a good look underneath last night and I can see what you mean about those clips. If the clips have to come off completely I may attempt the fuel lines at the same time. I will search for any info on the fuel lines.

In regards to running the copper over the fuel tank, is it easy enough with the tank in position? After reading a post by facade regard to disturbing the steel pipes I am trying to prepare for the worse if I do have to drop it.

Anyway thank you for the help guys it is much appreciated.

The clips are popped over a stud on the chassis, and they will flip off with a cranked screwdriver, but, you will never ever get the pipes out of the clips without cutting them into sections and pulling them out.
The clips have a one-way tang to grip the pipe.

I don't recall any problem getting the pipes in place except for the little turn over the chassis rail above the fuel filler.

The pipes to the tank are plastic, sweated over a steel line, so I simply cut the steel line close to the plastic and joined my copper fuel line on with some injection hose and clips to save disturbing the tank.