Stuck bolts

I used my Irwin Bolt Grippers. Never fail to undo a rusty rounded set of nuts

If you want to persist and get those four bolts each side of the car out, you can buy them here: www.lines-associates.com/store/index.php...oduct&product_id=180 from the Big Jimny Shop - the first place you should look for anything like this!

Sometimes to get a bolt that is seized like that out it is best to do it back up a bit, then undo it a bit and work it back and forth like that with plenty of WD40 as you go. You do not want it to sheer off in the steering knuckle.

You could try to do it up tight again and leave it, then follow the instructions given above in removing the ten 10mm little bolts holding the dust seal on the inside of the steering knuckle, pull out the other seals, noting how they went, and undo and remove the king pins top and bottom - however, you'll find yourself removing quite a large and unwieldy lump of steering knuckle and hub.

The method I personally use is to:

1) Remove the wheel (obviously) and the brake caliper/pads/bracket - hang the caliper up not letting it hang on the brake pipe.

2) Use this tool www.lines-associates.com/store/index.php?_a=category&cat_id=162 to remove the wheel bearing nut and pull the hub off the spindle of the steering knuckle. You'll need to have removed the vacuum operated free-wheeling hub first. That will need Hylomar Blue to re-seal when replaced.

3) Remove the necessary steering arms.

4) Undo the ten 10mm bolts on the inside of the knuckle, holding the dust seal to the knuckle, pulling the other seal behind it out and noting where they came from.

5) Undo the king pin bolts and remove them, having marked their position first so they go back the same way.

Then replace the king pin bearings and races, oil seal in the axle tube (having pulled the shaft and CV out, re-greasing the CV) and re-assemble in the reverse order.

You'll be able to get a six sided socket on that bolt head then.

I'm not saying the other way is wrong but I find it easier with less weight to have to slide back over the shaft when re-assembling as you don't want to put pressure or weight on the shaft for it to in turn press on the axle seal to damage that.

Also, your kingpins will likely be seized in also, so the less weight on them, the better the first time you take them out.

They will need gently knocking round and back and forth with a hammer to free them, but try not to lever on the flat surfaces of the kingpin or the steering knuckle to score them as they are meant to seal with sealant, like Hylomar Blue etc. This is easier said than done but once you get the kingpin lifted a little and gently knock it round, one way then the other, as it lifts keep spraying WD40 down the pin and it eventually will free and come out.

When the kingpin is out, clean it up with emery paper and the hole in the steering knuckle it came from. With plenty of grease on the bearings they won't be seized the next time you do it.

Getting this tool www.lines-associates.com/store/index.php?_a=category&cat_id=162 may seem un-necessary at the moment as you don't need to change the front wheel bearing (I assume) at the moment, but at some point you will and will be able to do at least some of it yourself, or allow your mechanic the use of the tool so he/she does it properly, as per this guide: www.bigjimny.com/images/documents/Changi...t_Wheel_Bearings.pdf which you'd need to read to get the hub off anyway.

I hope this helps and I hope I've not been too egg sucky - I don't know your level of mechanical skill or knowledge.

Kirkynut

Thanks Kirkynut,

that's precisely the level of detail I was looking for. Thank you all for taking the time to explain how I can get round the problem.

My jimny is my only car so I'll have to wait until I get a free weekend and have another go.

Got to say I'm impressed with the people who contribute to this site and their willingness to share their knowledge

Cheers.

No probs mate, this is one of the best forums around and as such it's like a community! It's full of characters and a fair few professional mechanics, fabricators and engineers, along with a load of other knowledgable people!

Kirkynut

kirkynut wrote: If you want to persist and get those four bolts each side of the car out, you can buy them here: www.lines-associates.com/store/index.php...oduct&product_id=180 from the Big Jimny Shop - the first place you should look for anything like this!

Sometimes to get a bolt that is seized like that out it is best to do it back up a bit, then undo it a bit and work it back and forth like that with plenty of WD40 as you go. You do not want it to sheer off in the steering knuckle.

You could try to do it up tight again and leave it, then follow the instructions given above in removing the ten 10mm little bolts holding the dust seal on the inside of the steering knuckle, pull out the other seals, noting how they went, and undo and remove the king pins top and bottom - however, you'll find yourself removing quite a large and unwieldy lump of steering knuckle and hub.

The method I personally use is to:

1) Remove the wheel (obviously) and the brake caliper/pads/bracket - hang the caliper up not letting it hang on the brake pipe.

2) Use this tool www.lines-associates.com/store/index.php?_a=category&cat_id=162 to remove the wheel bearing nut and pull the hub off the spindle of the steering knuckle. You'll need to have removed the vacuum operated free-wheeling hub first. That will need Hylomar Blue to re-seal when replaced.

3) Remove the necessary steering arms.

4) Undo the ten 10mm bolts on the inside of the knuckle, holding the dust seal to the knuckle, pulling the other seal behind it out and noting where they came from.

5) Undo the king pin bolts and remove them, having marked their position first so they go back the same way.

Then replace the king pin bearings and races, oil seal in the axle tube (having pulled the shaft and CV out, re-greasing the CV) and re-assemble in the reverse order.

You'll be able to get a six sided socket on that bolt head then.

I'm not saying the other way is wrong but I find it easier with less weight to have to slide back over the shaft when re-assembling as you don't want to put pressure or weight on the shaft for it to in turn press on the axle seal to damage that.

Also, your kingpins will likely be seized in also, so the less weight on them, the better the first time you take them out.

They will need gently knocking round and back and forth with a hammer to free them, but try not to lever on the flat surfaces of the kingpin or the steering knuckle to score them as they are meant to seal with sealant, like Hylomar Blue etc. This is easier said than done but once you get the kingpin lifted a little and gently knock it round, one way then the other, as it lifts keep spraying WD40 down the pin and it eventually will free and come out.

When the kingpin is out, clean it up with emery paper and the hole in the steering knuckle it came from. With plenty of grease on the bearings they won't be seized the next time you do it.

Getting this tool www.lines-associates.com/store/index.php?_a=category&cat_id=162 may seem un-necessary at the moment as you don't need to change the front wheel bearing (I assume) at the moment, but at some point you will and will be able to do at least some of it yourself, or allow your mechanic the use of the tool so he/she does it properly, as per this guide: www.bigjimny.com/images/documents/Changi...t_Wheel_Bearings.pdf which you'd need to read to get the hub off anyway.

I hope this helps and I hope I've not been too egg sucky - I don't know your level of mechanical skill or knowledge.

Kirkynut

Nice one pal.