The nuts and bolts of Kingpin bearings!
- whizz3006
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Low points were 1) realising neither I nor my friend had a torx socket for the hub, and having to go to the shops and buy one :whistle: .......... 2) the numerous stubborn bolts we came across......... 3) I struggled to realign the long drive shaft when refitting, it wouldn't slot it at the diff, my friend eventually got it by weighing down on it, I presume to lift it slightly at the diff end to align it.
We hit a low point when the instructions said 'remove the disc backing plate' bolts, because there was no way these things were shifting!


All in all a satisfying job and I'm delighted I've done it. I'll also fit new discs this month as I noticed they were a bit rusty - but the question I have after today is, is there anywhere you can by replacement for the numerous nuts/bolts you need to remove to do this job? - I'd gladly pay for new bolts for the swivel seal, king pins etc to make it easier next time. I didn't have to grind this time, but was close!
Anyone sell the bolts etc? - I presume if not you can get them from the dealer?
wHIZz
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- helijohn
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whizz3006 wrote: Took a deep breath and had a go at doing the kingpin bearings today using parts bought from Martin and the guide thats on here. Aside from the fact that it took quite a while (it will be much quicker next time) it went pretty well.
Low points were 1) realising neither I nor my friend had a torx socket for the hub, and having to go to the shops and buy one :whistle: . You can get away with a socket but if the heads are iffy perhaps not.......... 2) the numerous stubborn bolts we came across......... 3) I struggled to realign the long drive shaft when refitting, it wouldn't slot it at the diff, my friend eventually got it by weighing down on it, I presume to lift it slightly at the diff end to align it. That don't sound right.
We hit a low point when the instructions said 'remove the disc backing plate' bolts, because there was no way these things were shifting!deformed, rusted, rounded etc. - we did use wd40 and heat and an air gun but no joy. After a bit of 'googling', which incidentally just thew up results from this forum, we realised we didn't need to remove these to do the job (Martin, is there a reason that I don't understand as to why its in the instructions then?
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I think it is because the routine includes other jobs like bearings. I removed mine using a ring spanner carefully. I like to use a ring spanner on iffy rusty nuts for control and I know what force I am applying.
All in all a satisfying job and I'm delighted I've done it. I'll also fit new discs this month as I noticed they were a bit rusty - but the question I have after today is, is there anywhere you can by replacement for the numerous nuts/bolts you need to remove to do this job? - I'd gladly pay for new bolts for the swivel seal, king pins etc to make it easier next time. I didn't have to grind this time, but was close!
Anyone sell the bolts etc? - I presume if not you can get them from the dealer? Probs though they'll be costly.
I have found a lot of jobs I have done use extra fine threads, hard to grab off the shelf just anywhere and small hex heads........Suzuki all over.
wHIZz
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- GuardianAngel
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www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/detai...-piece-bolt-grip-set
I used these to get the disk plate off, then got replacement bolts off eBay. I used 10.9 grade hi-tensile bolts (might have been 12.9...). Only a few pence more than the 5hitty ones that Suzuki use. No need to go to Suzuki for replacements. Yes, over engineered I know, but why not and are unlikely to rust and crumble anytime soon.
It's pretty easy to measure the bolts sizes needed, I have somewhere posted the size of the bolts I used for the disk plate but can't find it...
EDIT: Bolt size is M10 x 25mm x 1.25 (Metric Fine)
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- helijohn
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GuardianAngel wrote: I can honestly say this is the best tool I have ever got, and has not failed to get my rusty nuts (!) off the Jimny once:
www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/detai...-piece-bolt-grip-set
Nice and on my Xmas list, yes Xmas is coming.
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whizz3006 wrote: (Martin, is there a reason that I don't understand as to why its in the instructions then?
)
Yes, when I did it the first time I followed the Suzuki official workshop manual.
Since then we have found what bits are not necessary, sorry.
The next set I am changing will be videoed anyway, probably on an ABS car to show the difference as well.
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
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- whizz3006
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