Brake problem again!!!!

Shouldn't be possible for normal humans.
The bearing is a one piece affair with a split centre race, when you tighten it the split closes up and preloads the bearing the correct amount.

Check the vent hole in the fluid reservior cap

If this is the case why have a torque setting if it ok to do it up as FU*KING TIGHT as you can

Like most fasteners, if you overnighten, you run the risk of stripping the threads, or overstressing the metal, if you undertighten, they may come undone.

In this particular case, the bearing is not going to be hurt by overtightning the nut, however if the nut is loose, the bearing will open up and there will be play.

The correct torque is 160lbft, 16 stone on a 2ft beaker bar will easily double that. If the spindle stretches over time under the strain then it will come loose.

Best to use a torque wrench as you suggest

I will invest in a wrench to be safe.

I started the process of replacing my king pins tonight (light stopped play) and I noticed that one of the caliper sliders was seized solid. I got it freed up but when moving it back and forth its feels very sticky.

So, could this be the latest cause of my occasional brake pedal dip? The front wheel has no play in it like the drivers side did that caused the problem the first time round (but there is a load of rusty fluid from the hub so I will replace the bearing none the less).