G0bble wrote:
Ok that was useful - I haven't quiet finished reading the beginner textbook on drivetrains so please correct this non-engineer novice, if I am wrong - (and I am only going by all the Youtube videos I have seen so far).
1. Can a slight mm variation in dimensions/size of the new LSD (compared to Original) change the existing backlash settings for the Crown/Pinion when I fit it in?
2. How exactly do I adjust backlash when (No.29,30) are going be self-contained inside the LSD?
3. After I adjust the backlash do I need to readjust the preload on the Pinion using Shims (No.4)? (which ideally I would not have touched when removing the original diff)... Meaning should I go in armed with extra shims to add (if not remove) be safe? (On the side - is it right that the MG413 appears to use a fixed collar (No.3) and shims (no.4) for preload unlike the UK Jimnys that use crushed collar)?
4. If I need to adjust the Shims (No.4) on the Pinion - will I need to remove the propeller shaft and place the diff on a table to now adjust both preload and backlash in turns iteratively using a DTI Dial indicator and a fish scale (measure and repeat until the right values are attained)? Which means I need to find the right value ranges for the MG413 which will be different from the Jimny and Samurai... and then also only go after finding a fish scale (not a weight scale looks like)? Also it looks like there is a fitment with a string required to be bolted to the pinion flange on Suzukis before force can be measured accurately - which I need to check if the Garage is going to have... (not even sure if the MG413s need this or it was only for the UK Jimnys)
5. Like in the diagram - Do I open the LSD and place the "cap" on one side of the crown gear and bolt it into the other side through the threads in the Crown gear ( joining (No.23) and (No.21) in the diagram)?
6. Some videos I saw (and it makes sense) recommended replacing brand new bearings rather than reuse old ones. My car has done +80k kms already and I would rather replace the bearings (No. 25,26). What are your thought on this? If the answer to (Q.3) above is Yes then also replace (No.6)?
1) Yes, that is why its important to set the backlash up properly with the dial indicator.
2) Backlash is adjusted with the parts numbered 26 in the diagram. They screw into the side and apply preload to the bearings. screw one in and the other out by an equal amount to move the crown wheel in or out. Check the tooth match pattern with some gear marking paint between the ring and pinion gears.
3) You dont need to fiddle with the pinion shaft unless the bearings are damaged (unlikely). In the diagram the crush tube is part 3 and looks identical to the Jimny one.
4) As above, but re the scale - that is to measure how much force it takes to start the flange turning. In reality any scale could be used as long as you remember to measure everything before taking it apart, then get it to the same when refitting. Even if your not touching the pinion, it would be wise to check this before and after fitting the locker.
5) Not quite; parts 21 & 23 (and everything inside them) are completely replaced by the new locker. The crown wheel is kept from the old centre, but thats all. It will simply bolt onto the new locker without having to take the locker apart at all.
6) Optional, if the bearings are in good condition and can be removed from the old 21 & 23 parts then why replace them? It would be easier not having to remove them and only having to press on new ones to the new locker. I would still avoid changing the pinion bearing unless really necessary.
Martin's video about an airlocker install is pretty much exactly the same job, except with the extra complexity of the airline. It shows setting the backlash well:
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