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Ok, I didn't really want to recount my experiences on an open forum, but here goes...
I've got the Rob Storr RS-Mfg shafts in the front of mine, and with the bigger CVs there is a definite knack to getting them and the shaft into the casing and the shaft splines into the diff at the same time... I have to hold the short shaft on the CV (that fits through the hub) up and at about 3 o'clock to sneak it passed the outcrop on the knuckle of the axle where the kingpins are...
It is a definite knack to it, so when Brett (my mate and 'laning cohort) said he was struggling to get his (JimnyBits' / Trail Gear / Longfield) ones in, I tried to describe my process over the 'phone, and then shot over to his to lend a hand...
We tried for ages, but there was no way they were going in...?
Luckily, he had a spare axle casing in the garage so we experimented with that... with the axle casing vertical (upright) the shafts and CVs slipped in easily, frustratingly easily?, so we tried them again in the axle on his Jimny but no way they were going in, so we thought the casing was at fault? Offroad abuse had bent or twisted it? So we tried the spare axle horizontally and then couldn't get the shafts in???
So the only way we could get Brett's in was to fit one shaft into the axle, gorilla tape it in, and then turn the axle over upright the other way and get the opposite shaft in, and then rebuild the axle on to his Jimny...
So, from our experience, we could only get them in with the axle upright off the truck...
Russ at JimnyBits is now aware of this, and I have suggested he gets an axle casing and diff, and tries getting them in with the axle flat / horizontal to see if us two old hands have missed a trick?...
Thanks for the info Dave. Good to know.
Got my hands on a set of TG CV joints. Just needs the shafts. So maybe I'll also have to go through this. That vertical/horizontal issue sounds strange. But if the alternative is grinding inside the knuckle, perhaps it's better doing it vertical.
Sounds to me as if the joint "opens" when held vertically, the long shaft weight acts on the joint to pull it open. This effectively makes the shaft longer so the splines on the end of the shaft engage with the diff first and are then held by the diff in place whilst the wiggling of the joint occurs. In the horizontal position the splines on the shaft need to engage at exactly the same time as the wiggle is needed so it becomes impossible,
Just a guess on my behalf.
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
What a polava re - fitting... One won't want to take the whole axle off and drain it just to fit shafts....
On another note - forgive my ignorance here; I believe the standard spline count is 22 on the Jimmy front axle. To upgrade to the 26 spline shafts is it just the 26 spline spider gears in the diff one has to change or anything else? Can one not just take a rear diff and shove it in or are they different sizes?
I presume to fit just the spider gears the whole diff has to come apart then get re set up?..
Currently have a broken front shaft and weighing up my options... Thanks
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