Underseal

POR15 can be applied to bare metal or even to rust as long as you prep with Metal Ready. It's actually easier to apply to rust although personally I would always ensure all rust is banished first. POR15 is non-porous and flexible.

Dinitrol is a range of rust prevention/treatment products including an underseal type paint. Their star products for me though are the cavity/underbody wax kits. Personally I paint with POR15 then use Dinitrol on top instead of Waxoyl. It won the Practical Classics rust prevention wax test a couple of years back and I've had excellent results too.

Dynax S50 and the Bilt Hamber range are good too. There are a lot of products out there!

Matt.

Wigeon Incognito wrote: POR15 can be applied to bare metal or even to rust as long as you prep with Metal Ready. It's actually easier to apply to rust although personally I would always ensure all rust is banished first. POR15 is non-porous and flexible.

Dinitrol is a range of rust prevention/treatment products including an underseal type paint. Their star products for me though are the cavity/underbody wax kits. Personally I paint with POR15 then use Dinitrol on top instead of Waxoyl. It won the Practical Classics rust prevention wax test a couple of years back and I've had excellent results too.

Dynax S50 and the Bilt Hamber range are good too. There are a lot of products out there!

Matt.

Sounds good, is metal ready their version of rust cure?

Def going to be having a bit of dinitrol then

What are they both like for spreading, will a small tin do all the underneath or will I need 5 gallons of the stuff?

The Metal Ready is for stopping the spread of rust (supposedly) but mainly to degrease the surface for painting and if you're painting POR15 I strongly recommend using some brushes you don't mind throwing away. If you want it to look pretty use a varnishing brush.

Both products can spread well but neither is a product you want to be stingy with as if you miss a bit the rust will creep in.

There are occasional reports of POR15 flaking as with any other paint BUT I almost guarantee it's down to poor prep. It's most difficult to apply to brand new panels due to the coating they have from the factory, they need cleaning with Marine Clean before using Metal Ready. Also if you apply over existing paint the effectiveness of POR15, or any rust prevention paint, is lessened as they're all designed to adhere directly to metal. Applying to rust is easiest.

The other thing to bear in mind with all of these paints is they're UV sensitive so designed to be used on the underside of vehicles. Elsewhere they would need to be primed over then given a top coat of paint.

I'll soon use POR15 on the underside of my near concours old Cooper S but will prime on top, paint, and lacquer as the underside should be body colour. I'll then Dinitrol on top.

PS Sorry about the odd posting times, I'm abroad at the moment.

Matt.

Thanks Matt

when i bought mine i had the dealer do it as they were an isuzu subaru dealer they used the stuff for them ,i did touch up a couple of places but they done a very good job ,but i done the whole of the engine bay with the clear vw white wax which just drys to a mat finish

I wouldnt bother cos its going to rust no matter what you do all your doing its trapping the damp next to the metal

i had a 1979 mini under sealled and wax oiled from new i was the second owner and with in a year i had to weld in a new floor inner and outer sill and the door shut