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R7ME gearbox rebuild - looking for tips, manual pages, or wisdom
17 Jul 2026 18:13 #264956
by OrHoter
Hi everyone,I’m about to tackle a full rebuild on my 1999 Suzuki Jimny’s manual gearbox due to a failed input shaft bearing.
All of the information, teardown guides, and videos online cover the later R72 box, leaving the R7ME a bit in the shadows.Since information is scarce, I would highly appreciate any advice from anyone who has successfully rebuilt one of these.Are there any specific "gotchas" when splitting the main casing or removing the 5th gear assembly? Any hidden snap rings or detent balls that like to fly across the workshop?
Specific order for bearings removal/install?
Does anyone have copies or screenshots of the specific R7ME transmission overhaul pages from the early SN413 service manual?
Any tribal knowledge or tips before I crack this case open would be massive.
Thanks in advance!
All of the information, teardown guides, and videos online cover the later R72 box, leaving the R7ME a bit in the shadows.Since information is scarce, I would highly appreciate any advice from anyone who has successfully rebuilt one of these.Are there any specific "gotchas" when splitting the main casing or removing the 5th gear assembly? Any hidden snap rings or detent balls that like to fly across the workshop?
Specific order for bearings removal/install?
Does anyone have copies or screenshots of the specific R7ME transmission overhaul pages from the early SN413 service manual?
Any tribal knowledge or tips before I crack this case open would be massive.
Thanks in advance!
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17 Jul 2026 19:55 #264957
by fordem
Replied by fordem on topic R7ME gearbox rebuild - looking for tips, manual pages, or wisdom
Check your PMs
The following user(s) said Thank You: OrHoter
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18 Jul 2026 06:47 - 18 Jul 2026 06:48 #264958
by facade
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Replied by facade on topic R7ME gearbox rebuild - looking for tips, manual pages, or wisdom
I did the one on my 2000 Jimny, for the same reason. I changed all the large ball race bearings while it was apart, the needle rollers don't come in the kit
The hardest part was actually getting the gearbox out (and back in!)
The rebuild is easy following the manual. It didn't need the endfloat shimming as it wasn't jumping out of gear or anything, just whirring at idle.
I don't recall anything flying apart, there is no need to disturb the synchros, the detent springs stay in the lid if you don't disturb the selectors.
The only "gotcha" was that when pressing the output bearing on I didn't use a large enough tube to clear the step on the shaft (schoolboy error, it dropped over the shaft ok...) and it split the tube!
Change the rear gearbox mounting, they are always gone!
I dropped the transfer box out, change the mounting rubbers and clean up & lacquer the mounting arms, corrosive salt gets between the aloominums mount and the steel backing and causes the aloominums to corrode & swell up which will crack the mount if you don't catch it in time.
The hardest part was actually getting the gearbox out (and back in!)
The rebuild is easy following the manual. It didn't need the endfloat shimming as it wasn't jumping out of gear or anything, just whirring at idle.
I don't recall anything flying apart, there is no need to disturb the synchros, the detent springs stay in the lid if you don't disturb the selectors.
The only "gotcha" was that when pressing the output bearing on I didn't use a large enough tube to clear the step on the shaft (schoolboy error, it dropped over the shaft ok...) and it split the tube!
Change the rear gearbox mounting, they are always gone!
I dropped the transfer box out, change the mounting rubbers and clean up & lacquer the mounting arms, corrosive salt gets between the aloominums mount and the steel backing and causes the aloominums to corrode & swell up which will crack the mount if you don't catch it in time.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Last edit: 18 Jul 2026 06:48 by facade.
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18 Jul 2026 11:23 #264959
by OrHoter
Replied by OrHoter on topic R7ME gearbox rebuild - looking for tips, manual pages, or wisdom
Thanks for the info!
Actually, I already ordered all of the ball bearings, needle bearings, sinchros and oil seals.
Did you took the gearbox out and in while the car was on a lift or jack stands?
I don't have a lift so I plan on doing it on jack stands and lifting the gearbox with a floor jack.
I replaced the engine and gearbox mounts just a few months ago so no worries there 😁
Actually, I already ordered all of the ball bearings, needle bearings, sinchros and oil seals.
Did you took the gearbox out and in while the car was on a lift or jack stands?
I don't have a lift so I plan on doing it on jack stands and lifting the gearbox with a floor jack.
I replaced the engine and gearbox mounts just a few months ago so no worries there 😁
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18 Jul 2026 21:09 #264961
by facade
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Replied by facade on topic R7ME gearbox rebuild - looking for tips, manual pages, or wisdom
I'm fairy sure that I'd just have had the front wheels on a set of ramps, I did it on the drive.
You have to pull the engine forwards to get the gearbox to come off, and even then it is really super extremely very tight- people have been known to put the speed saw through the cross member to get it out, and then fabricate a way to bolt the cross member back in.
Putting it back in was equally difficult- but not impossible!
There is a wire that dangles down the back of the engine (probably the reverse light switch) and gets trapped between the bell housing and the back of the engine, watch out for it.
As I recall, getting the starter off is impossible, you have to struggle to get the bolts out and push it forwards a little, then leave it in place.
Oil the needle rollers on assembly if you are changing them, you won't detect any wear in them unless the car has been towed a lot or a ball race has collapsed.
If it wasn't for all the wiring it would be easier to pull the engine & gearbox out in one. In The Olden Days you could have an engine out in half an hour
You have to pull the engine forwards to get the gearbox to come off, and even then it is really super extremely very tight- people have been known to put the speed saw through the cross member to get it out, and then fabricate a way to bolt the cross member back in.
Putting it back in was equally difficult- but not impossible!
There is a wire that dangles down the back of the engine (probably the reverse light switch) and gets trapped between the bell housing and the back of the engine, watch out for it.
As I recall, getting the starter off is impossible, you have to struggle to get the bolts out and push it forwards a little, then leave it in place.
Oil the needle rollers on assembly if you are changing them, you won't detect any wear in them unless the car has been towed a lot or a ball race has collapsed.
If it wasn't for all the wiring it would be easier to pull the engine & gearbox out in one. In The Olden Days you could have an engine out in half an hour
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
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