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2004 jimny m13a TDC and crank pulley removal.

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23 Feb 2026 10:04 #263861 by Kappy
Still new here,  having purchased my 1st Jimny, 2004 JLX came  with  suspect head gasket issue, price was right. 
In the process of removing head and timing chain cover, in need of some advise please.
seeking guidence of finding TDC on DOHC M13A.
Also hints on undoing crank nut and removing crank pulley.
there is a special tool to undo nut, I can fabricate this if someone has dimensions pls.
think I have some gear pulling stuff.
TIA 
Kappy

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23 Feb 2026 13:19 - 23 Feb 2026 13:22 #263863 by yakuza
Usually I just place a long wrench on the nut, set it up against the inner fender or frame, and just click on starter to cranck it.
It so happens to be turning the loosy way.
Most times i remember to unplug the coils first.

To tighten I put the car in second or third gear and then manually tighten with the long wrench.
Should be torqued to spec. 

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 Cooper Disco, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck.
Last edit: 23 Feb 2026 13:22 by yakuza.

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23 Feb 2026 14:39 #263867 by fordem
 

For TDC there should be a notch on the crank pulley and a scale on the timing cover.

 

If you have the cover off already ...
The following user(s) said Thank You: Kappy

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23 Feb 2026 19:41 - 23 Feb 2026 19:46 #263869 by facade
If you mean a crankshaft holding still tool, I made one from a piece of thick steel I had knocking around. It hooked under the chassis, because of the size of it I needed to notch it to clear the bracket for the power steering pipe, I was in a rush so I just drilled holes and chiselled it out.

 


I just made holes that fitted the bolts that screw into the pulley, M8 probably, and cleared the socket.  Centres look around 65mm.

 

Tbh, most people just rattle gun it off. If it won't move like mine, and you need to get The Scaffold Pole out then you are wasting your time as the rust under the bolt flange is holding it solid to the pulley and it will never move.

After several frustrated attempts over a few days I eventually bit the bullet and bought a new flanged bolt, then sliced the flange off in 4 pieces with a cutting disc- the crank is a couple of mm shorter than the pulley and I didn't want the pulley. (The bolt came out with fingers with the flange cut away)

 

Definitely worth a new pulley if you go this route as the outer rim comes off when you are going along eventually, helped by tightening the fanbelt because it is slipping due to the pulley rim coming loose...





 

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)
Last edit: 23 Feb 2026 19:46 by facade.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Kappy

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24 Feb 2026 05:30 #263873 by Kappy
Thanks everyone,
Engine at TDC.
Made my own Suzuki special tool, piece of 50x 50mm angle, prompt up with a piece of timber. 
Nut was real tight , I could see the engine moving on the engine mounts, till the nut let go. Out she come. 
On inspection of crank pulley by hand , with some slight manipulation i pulled it off by hand. Inspection revealed ok.
Now to removed timing cover,  all studs removed,  cover not wanting to come off.
do I need to remove the sump? I removed the front studs of the sump, seem attached to bottom of timing cover.
TIA 
Kappy   
 

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24 Feb 2026 08:08 #263875 by Busta
You only need to remove the front row of bolts from the sump.

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