Jimny/Samurai front steering knuckle swap.

Hi all,

Ive searched a good bit and cant find any answers on this maybe because no one wants to or maybe it not possible im not too sure.

for various reasons I want re locate the tie rod to the front of the axle same as in a samurai. rather than making steering knuckles is it possible to fit samurai steering knuckles to Jimny axles ? looking for a more bolt on solution as im not going to invest a whole heap of money of time into the Jimny axles ( I have some LJ70 axles to go on just no time). 

Thanks Ciaran 

Attached is a few pics of my build.
Tray back/Tube front
Mid mounted 8274
rocklobster and RW cradle 
Longfeild shafts and CVs
BMW M47 diesel engine and BMW 6 speed gearbox.
Custom 4 link rear with 14" rough country shocks. 
extended wheelbase 5 inches in the rear 1 in the front.
33.12.50R16 CL24 dragon claws on Dediland beadlocks.
Rear locker. 
lots of other random modifications. 
 
 
 

I see two problems.

1. Putting that much torque through a Suzuki diff. is likely to cause major damage. I suggest axles from a 70 series Toyota Land-Cruiser.
2. By fitting a cage structure to the rear you have changed the balance of the motor - more weight to the front, less to the rear - and this will create a very skittish motor.

Roger

wrote:

I see two problems.

1. Putting that much torque through a Suzuki diff. is likely to cause major damage. I suggest axles from a 70 series Toyota Land-Cruiser.
2. By fitting a cage structure to the rear you have changed the balance of the motor - more weight to the front, less to the rear - and this will create a very skittish motor.

Roger

1. Not really problems I'm well aware of the limitations of the Suzuki axles and I've already driven it plenty with this setup and not had any issues just have to be mindful of the power. I will upgrade in time but i don't want a shed queen i want to be able to use it and enjoy it so il keep going until i have a failure. Also the samurai transfer case wont take the power either i will fit a Nissan patrol or LT230 one with and adapter (nice thing about BMW gearbox lots of off the shelf adapters) its all about keeping it use able and not having it in 100 pieces in the shed for months and not getting to enjoy it, is it the ideal setup no but it works for now. 

2. Your estimations are wrong here if anything there is more weight in the back now ( also if you think the orignal sheet metal weighs alot more than the tube work your mistaken). The 8274 winch is mounted behind the cab with winch plate etc. .along with the 2 x 30kg battery's and the fuel tank is now on the axle centerline. the exact objective of this is to remove weight from the front. Also the 4 link is setup with totally adjustable geometry right now its in a nice neutral setting with some squat under power. it handles much better than the old setup. and flex's a lot more.
 

My comments were made based on hindsight. the first you already know about as you have mentioned it in your reply. The second point was made because a friend modified a Hi-Lux in similar fashion and found it difficult to drive because traction on a wet tarmac road was sadly lacking.
As I have mentioned, my comments were made based on my own findings and as such should be treated purely as information. I will not comment further.

Roger

I meant no offence by it just explaining the reasoning behind the build. And yes I could definitely see this on a hilux they are notoriously light in the back even with the tub on.

A few competition cars here with lowered range SJ transfer case, Volvo B23 or smaller diesel and hilux axles.
Must be strong transfer mounts in a cradle.
With open diffs 33's are ok on the Sammy axles. With lockers there are cromoly shafts that make them take it.
Based on what i seen and is common here.