A place for more technical discussions. Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.

Joys of buying 2nd Hand cars

  • Lambert
  • Offline
  • Moderator
  • Moderator
    Registered
  • The best Jimny in Harrogate...(that I own)
More
28 Jan 2024 14:28 #253839 by Lambert
Just to add to this if you have abs then taking the sensor off is usually the worst bit as the m6 screw holding it on snaps for fun meaning that once you have the knuckle off you have to drill the remainder out. This is why I prefer to take the knuckle separately as there is just nicely enough cable on the sensor to get it clear without disturbing the sensor.

Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
R.E.D Retired Extremely Dangerous
Bellerophon (2024 grello van) daily dose of disappointment.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
28 Jan 2024 14:32 #253840 by Roger Fairclough
Welding up the hub is a bodge, it's not as bad as welding up the diff. but it's very close. Firstly you need to ascertain that both hubs have been welded as just having one done will will put extra loading on the diff. sun gears which will cause extra wear and tear. Temporarily replace the drive shaft. Put the car in any gear and with the other front wheel on the ground, try and turn the drive shaft that you have just put back. If it does turn the hub is open and you must return the hub that is welded to a standard configuration with or without air hubs or manual locking one's or weld up the other hub. If it wont turn there is a direct drive through the hub which probably means that it is welded.
There may be a problem with the welds on the hub. From memory the CVJoint should be hard up against the face of the hub but at least two of the welds appear to be proud of the face and that may cause a problem in refitting.
Finally, the seal on the drive shaft is fitted to stop diff. oil from passing from the diff. case ( pumpkin ) into the hub housing and care should be taken when putting the drive shaft back as it is very easy to damage the seal lip. Consequently, it is better to dismantle shaft from housing so that the shaft can be manoeuvred into position with greater care.

Roger

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
28 Jan 2024 16:01 #253841 by Phaeton
Decided to do the other side earlier, before reading the post, but I figured as it was the drivers side the shaft was a lot shorter so should hopefully be a lot easier to deal with which turned out to be true. This side didn't come apart anywhere near as easy as the passenger, had to resort to hammer & chisel to get the bottom kingpin out.

 

All cleaned up & back together now, just need to get 4 track rods so that they all can be done, then taking for tracking, before thinking of new tyres.

Both hubs have been welded so at least they were consistent, but on the lookout for a set to replace them with, not urgent as mileage is very low.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
28 Jan 2024 20:37 #253849 by facade
Replied by facade on topic Joys of buying 2nd Hand cars
A common(ish) bodge is to run a self tapper into the centre of the vacuum hub which pushes the diaphragm over into the lock position and keeps it there. I suppose you have to run it in until it holds the diaphragm, measure how much sticks out and then grind the pointy end back the same amount. No welding required, and the hub is just as bust.....

As I said, some people drive with the hubs locked for years.

I fixed the vacuum system on mine, there is a lot to go wrong, and mine had multiple problems- a jammed vacuum valve, a broken pipe and the passage in the hub blocked with grease from a new wheelbearing....

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
28 Jan 2024 21:55 - 28 Jan 2024 22:01 #253850 by Busta
Replied by Busta on topic Joys of buying 2nd Hand cars
The screw through the hub trick is one of my hacks. 20mm is the length you need, I carry a couple in the glove box incase I'm ever unable to fix the vacuum system. The screw pushes against a metal piece inside so does no lasting harm, and the small hole made in the face of the hub can easily be plugged to get the vacuum system working again.
I'll also take credit for the welded front diff seeing as Roger bought that up, although I don't think anyone else has been brave enough to try that one yet! Mine's still going strong after a couple of years and ~20,000 miles.
Welding the front hubs is a perfectly acceptable way to convert them to locked hubs, albeit a lot more work than putting a screw in and completely irreversible. I can't think of a situation where anyone would weld just one hub.

​​​
Last edit: 28 Jan 2024 22:01 by Busta.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
29 Jan 2024 09:32 - 29 Jan 2024 11:35 #253859 by Phaeton
Just for clarification if it was missed both hubs have been welded, I have also found another set for £40 so once they arrive I'll check them over & install to see if they work, I would prefer them to be freewheeling & work on the vacuum.

Edit:- Just to add I had to go up the farm this morning & I can't believe how much difference it appears to have made, now it might be psychological as there didn't seem to be any play in the knackered bearings
Last edit: 29 Jan 2024 11:35 by Phaeton.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.241 seconds
Joomla template by a4joomla