Brake problems

The next thing on the list is to check the condition of the various flexible brake lines for deformation under pressure. Then if they are good you'll be looking at new brake fluid as it absorbes water over time and degrades.

If the sliders were seized then the discs can't be clean. Whip them off and attack them with a sander (new discs and pads are preferable). Give the pads a light clean-up and see if that makes a difference. If it does, order new discs and pads. Chris

I would suggest your next step is to isolate the master cylinder but you need brake hose clamps to do it. It can be done with mole grips but I suggest you cover the clamping prongs with gaffer tape or similar to protect the hose. You will need to do all the hoses so that might be up to 4. Don't overdo the clamping, just enough to stop the flow of oil. With the clamps in place you should get a small - think 10mm of travel- and then the pedal should be solid. Maintain pressure to check you have no leakage past the master cylinder seals. If this all checks out remove any one clamp and try again. You should get a small rise in downward movement. Continue removing the remaining clamps. If you suddenly get a larger movement or the pedal goes soft then the clamp you just removed is where your trouble lies.When you have solved the problem and a test drive is positive and check on the brake tester at your local MoT station is a good idea. It will probably cost you a Tenner but you will get a balance summary side to side and front to back plus your handbrake.

Roger