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Re:Power to the Speedo dead in the tropics
- Jim Jim
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16 May 2019 14:42 #208121
by Jim Jim
Power to the Speedo dead in the tropics was created by Jim Jim
Hi Guys,
I bought a 1999 Jimny 3 hard top with the G13BB engine. It was hit at the back but other wise in great condition rust wise, engine was rebuilt etc.
The speedometer is dead while all the tach and other gauges work. I have read posts where the guys with the same issue disconnected the battery, however this Jimny had a disconnected battery for over a year and I still did the reconnect and disconnect suggestion with no success.
I would like to know where to start doing some diagnostics, do you guys know where I should start from. since the instrument has so no power , would you guys know which pin out from the ecu or other pin out which is responsible for the powering up of the speedo?
I would like to change all the fluids, but on the Wiki page there is the word "Never" next to some of the transfer, rear and front differential gear oil specs, can anyone tell me what was the contributor referring to? You can see it here when you scroll to the Jimny 3 oil specs www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?tit...vals_and_consumables
Thanks so much and this is a great site.
Cheers.
I bought a 1999 Jimny 3 hard top with the G13BB engine. It was hit at the back but other wise in great condition rust wise, engine was rebuilt etc.
The speedometer is dead while all the tach and other gauges work. I have read posts where the guys with the same issue disconnected the battery, however this Jimny had a disconnected battery for over a year and I still did the reconnect and disconnect suggestion with no success.
I would like to know where to start doing some diagnostics, do you guys know where I should start from. since the instrument has so no power , would you guys know which pin out from the ecu or other pin out which is responsible for the powering up of the speedo?
I would like to change all the fluids, but on the Wiki page there is the word "Never" next to some of the transfer, rear and front differential gear oil specs, can anyone tell me what was the contributor referring to? You can see it here when you scroll to the Jimny 3 oil specs www.bigjimny.com/mediawiki/index.php?tit...vals_and_consumables
Thanks so much and this is a great site.
Cheers.
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16 May 2019 15:23 #208124
by Lambert
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
Bellerophon (2024 grello van daily
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
Replied by Lambert on topic Power to the Speedo dead in the tropics
The never refers the Suzuki manual suggesting that the various bits are filled for life as it were. But in reality it is sensible to change them periodically.
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
Bellerophon (2024 grello van daily
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
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16 May 2019 15:26 #208125
by Jim Jim
Replied by Jim Jim on topic Power to the Speedo dead in the tropics
Would you guys also know if the Jimny 3 right side power window motor fits the Jimny models to 2017 or there about? Mine in the 1999 Jimny is bad and we cant seem to find new ones here, so have to seek used for now until I can import one.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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16 May 2019 15:44 #208129
by Jim Jim
Replied by Jim Jim on topic Power to the Speedo dead in the tropics
Thanks Lambert.
I had a BMW performance garage in Canada and could never understand the transmission oil for life idea.
Oil breaks down over time and with heat, I have been to a number of oil technology seminars, cant get my head around that oil for life at all.
I am in the process of rebuilding a Land Rover Defender and did the entire oil research for whats best out there for these older models, so many variances out there too.
Thanks for your reply and for helping to maintain this great website and forums.
Cheers.
I had a BMW performance garage in Canada and could never understand the transmission oil for life idea.
Oil breaks down over time and with heat, I have been to a number of oil technology seminars, cant get my head around that oil for life at all.
I am in the process of rebuilding a Land Rover Defender and did the entire oil research for whats best out there for these older models, so many variances out there too.
Thanks for your reply and for helping to maintain this great website and forums.
Cheers.
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16 May 2019 16:45 #208135
by Riccy
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
Replied by Riccy on topic Power to the Speedo dead in the tropics
For the speedo I would start at the speedo sensor on the transfer box and work back towards the dash from there. Small plug with a sensor next to a toothed wheel on the rear output of the t-box. 3 wires I think
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...
www.youtube.com/user/riclemus
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17 May 2019 00:28 #208159
by Jim Jim
Replied by Jim Jim on topic Power to the Speedo dead in the tropics
Hi Riccy, thanks for the reply and tips.
I managed to remove the instrument cluster bezel quite easily, just remove the 2 counter sunk Phillips head screws just above the cluster and gently pull the bezel towards you, it has clips which pops out easily.
To remove the instrument cluster, remove the 4 pan head Phillip screws from the 4 corners of the cluster, tilt and pull the cluster towards you.
It took me a while to unclip the connectors, I realized that you have to bring the cluster as far out as you can and in the same horizontal position, reach around the back and press the locking tabs down firmly and pull the connectors out squarely. Be careful with the contact membrane, it can break or tear easily.
I managed to remove the instrument cluster bezel quite easily, just remove the 2 counter sunk Phillips head screws just above the cluster and gently pull the bezel towards you, it has clips which pops out easily.
To remove the instrument cluster, remove the 4 pan head Phillip screws from the 4 corners of the cluster, tilt and pull the cluster towards you.
It took me a while to unclip the connectors, I realized that you have to bring the cluster as far out as you can and in the same horizontal position, reach around the back and press the locking tabs down firmly and pull the connectors out squarely. Be careful with the contact membrane, it can break or tear easily.
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