Jimny following camber of the road

Suzuki don't specify any preload for the swivel bearings (kingpins), on a Landrover you shim them until it takes a specified force to start the hub turning.

However, in a desperate attempt to fix the wobble, Suzuki did put out a service bulletin to suggest banging shims on top of the upper bearing to increase the preload from "probably all-right, we machined it in when we made it" to a known figure




Notice the big dust seal has to be off.

I'd just pop the track rod end out of the arm and compare how much effort it takes to start the hub turning each side. If it is way to high, the car will wander as the steering can't centre itself as you go along.

I’ll pop the track rod end out and have a feel of each side then.

I’m wondering if one side was fitted with a bearing kit that came with shims and the other side fitted with a bearing kit without shims would this cause my problem ?

How do you mean the dust seal has to be off?

Just a thought...... sticky calliper ???

sniper

I don’t suspect a sticky calliper because that would pull it to one side constantly and it only appears to do it on the flat and I’m not getting a burning smell or excessive heat from either side.
When I changed the discs and pads the pistons retracted fine.
The sliders were sticky though and some of the slider boots were cracked.
I cleaned the sliders up and used red rubber grease on them
There’s no pulling to the left or right under braking.

I have new sliders,boots and bolts along with new pad clips here to go on
So when I com to fit those I’ll investigate that.
I’ve also new front dampers to put on
There nothing wrong with the current dampers as far as I can tell
The rears were tired and leaking so I bought a full set but only found time to fit the rears.

What I could do with is finding another jimny owner local to me and get them to have a drive of mine and maybe me have a drive of theirs so I can see if mines just the way they are or if there is a difference with mine.

paradox1001 wrote:
How do you mean the dust seal has to be off?

The big seal around the ball housing has to be taken off and left dangling for an accurate measurement (as in the picture), as it is the friction component that damps out the death wobble (or doesn't).

Just for comparing each side I wouldn't bother. If you can move it by blowing on it, I'd look at shimming it, if you need your feet on the chassis and arching your back to shift it I would look at measuring and fiddling with shims.

Probably when you seal was replaced because it had turned over, they simply undid the ring, pulled it back and refitted it.

Paradox, where abouts in the country are you?