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Factory diesel Jimnys (DDiS) - all info about them

  • Decklandpt
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19 Nov 2015 22:50 #156685 by Decklandpt
on a quick search in renault forums i found from 18000miles to 38000 miles.
i'f i recall, i think the manual did state 60000kms (38k miles)
the first time i changed it was at around 60000kms. by that time it was 7 years old and had started to come apart and sending bit into the injection system.. at the time, it cost me 150€, and i later found them online for around 20€. it's something that can be done at home. just get some clothespins to put on the fuel pipes so they don't spit fuel all over the engine bay and replace the thing. after it's replaced just pump the rubber thing next to it to pump fuel back and minimize air in the injection system. you can easily find a tutorial for that on the web or youtube.
on the bottom of the fuel filter canister, there is a screw-in plug that you can unscrew to drain it. if you're curious, just drain it into a cup and see what the fuel looks like, and if it has crap in it.
given that the fuel over there is not that great and how cheap you can get the filter for on ebay and stuff, i'd say change it every 20000miles or 2 years.

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27 Nov 2015 14:37 #157302 by Bosanek
Thank you very much for your investigation.

I had my fuel filter replaced as a part of the engine cleaning job in my local Renault garage.
I bought the filter at official Suzuki dealer for 40 EUR. It arrived in a genuine Suzuki box, but the filter inside clearly labeled as "Knecht 404/16", and it also has Mahle labels.

It's this one:
www.amazon.co.uk/Knecht-KL-404-16-filter/dp/B0068MY3Y8

I found it in Austria and Germany online going for 25-30 EUR.


Do you think if it makes any sense to periodically "drain" the filter by fiddling with that screw-in plug at the bottom of the filter? Since the fuel quality in my country is bad, maybe water deposits at the bottom of the filter from time to time?

Based on your findings, I agree that changing it every 35 000 - 40 000 km would be a good practice.

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  • Decklandpt
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29 Nov 2015 10:37 - 29 Nov 2015 10:38 #157455 by Decklandpt

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02 Dec 2015 09:04 - 02 Dec 2015 09:22 #157706 by Bosanek
I researched and found out that your fuel filter looks different than mine because Suzuki (or Renault) changed fuel filter type when they upgraded from 48 kW engine to 63 kW engine. The new fuel filter type (as in my engine) is more robust and higher quality (and higher price). The two types are not compatible.

I would agree with your logical reasoning behind "flushing" the fuel filter.

To sum it for other potential readers:

Older DDiS Jimnys with 48 kW engine use fuel filter with part number 15410-84A00.
It looks like this:
cdn.autoersatzteile.de/thumb/?m=1&id=1757309&lng=en

Newer DDiS Jimnys with 63 kW engine use fuel filter with part number 15410-84A51.
It looks like this:
cdn.pkwteile.de/thumb/?m=1&id=964304&lng=en&e=53
Last edit: 02 Dec 2015 09:22 by Bosanek.

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  • steved
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20 Feb 2016 20:48 #162726 by steved
Hi dave cc are you still doing isuzu 1.7 to jimny kits steve 07974928947

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11 Apr 2016 14:31 #165192 by Bosanek
I have a new engine issue on my DDiS Jimny.

Situation: I am going slowly downhill on a gentle slope, say in 1st HI gear with a foot off the throttle. The gradient is so low that the car is on the verge of engine braking or self-powering by automatic fuel injection (to keep the engine alive).

In such a situation, I can clearly hear a variable buzzing sound (like an electric valve or something trying to self-adjust). After several seconds, engine begins to stutter, the buzzing sound increases in strength and variation frequency, the car begins to shake a bit, and I get a red STOP warning light on my dashboard. I normally turn off the engine ASAP.

When I turn the engine ON a bit later, everything works normally. If I repeat the same situation again, there are high chances (approx 60-70%) that the same will happen again.

Also, if the car is stationery in neutral, and I just keep on "patting" my foot on the throttle pedal, I can also hear this variable buzzing sound, like an electric valve having a hard time adjusting itself.

If I go downhill in a faster speed (say, 3rd HI or higher), I have no problems, no matter the gradient.
If I go uphill fast with a strong throttle, I have no problems as well.
But If I go uphill slowly on a strong throttle, I can get the described issue, but it's much harder to provoke than with the "slow gentle downhill" test which I described first.

Based on all this, I suspect on some issue with fuel injection, or with throttle control.

Any ideas?

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