A place for more technical discussions. Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.

Rear Brake Pipe 2007 Jimny

More
06 Jun 2015 20:57 - 06 Jun 2015 21:00 #145560 by auchenblae
In April I got an advisory on the MOT for rusty rear brake pipes but the guy said do not bother doing anything.

Serviced the car today and had a look at the back end as well as hoping to flush the brake fluid.

Result both rear pipes are getting rusty not bad but still a bit rusty and the rear bleed nipple would not move.

I have decided to replace both the short and over axle pipe and also change the nearside cylinder rather than mess about with the nearside nipple.

The offside brake shoes have no wear at 60k miles, the nearside back shoe has no wear but the nearside front shoe is down to 2.5mm at the bottom of the shoe. I have shoes in stock.

So experiance of you guys in doing the rear brake pipes

1) Do I buy the ready made pipes from Suzuki, will get a price on Monday but that may be very expensive. Also it could be tricky to get the old pipe out of the cylinders without the garages oxy acetalyne.

2) I could put it into the local garge for them to remove, make up from their kit and replace the pipes. I assume that they will need to use heat to get the old ones off.

3) Has anyone bought one of the brake pipe kits but I have never made all those bends before and is there is knack in doing it.

I assume that as I am changing both pipes and also the nearside cylinder it may be just as well to change the offside rear brake cylinder as well after 8 years of use.

Comments please from those who have done it. It looks a crap job without heat!!!!!!!!!!!

eddie

eddie

24 Swift Ultra ALLGRIP
16 SZ3 gone 25
07 JLX+ gone 16
99 JLX gone 07
Last edit: 06 Jun 2015 21:00 by auchenblae.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • wombat
  • New Member
  • New Member
    Public
More
06 Jun 2015 21:04 #145563 by wombat
Replied by wombat on topic Rear Brake Pipe 2007 Jimny
If you are changing the metal pipe, saw it off flush with the union then tap a hex socket onto the union and use a ratchet or bar to remove it, thus saving the cylinder. Try the same method on the bleed nipple then you only need to buy a new nipple :)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
06 Jun 2015 21:16 #145566 by auchenblae
The nipple is only 7 to 8mm diameter and if I try that it may well break so how do you bleed the system.

Been there and ended up having to replace a caliper before with small rusty nipples.

eddie

eddie

24 Swift Ultra ALLGRIP
16 SZ3 gone 25
07 JLX+ gone 16
99 JLX gone 07

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
07 Jun 2015 04:05 #145572 by Halford
Replied by Halford on topic Rear Brake Pipe 2007 Jimny
It's only an advisory, my 2007 got the same notice issued 2 years ago and hence will keep popping up. The MOT tester said to unclip it and loop a strip of emery over and gently remove the rust then either treat with rust convertor or paint with hammerite.

And your next advisory will state "rear brake pipe painted unable to inspect" :whistle:

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
07 Jun 2015 08:34 #145579 by auchenblae
Sorry but my Impreza burst a rusty brake pipe two months ago so this is getting sorted, end of story!

eddie

24 Swift Ultra ALLGRIP
16 SZ3 gone 25
07 JLX+ gone 16
99 JLX gone 07

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
07 Jun 2015 09:18 #145580 by facade
Replied by facade on topic Rear Brake Pipe 2007 Jimny
Just wirebrush round the threads on the unions, and spray with penetrating oil, not WD40 :whistle: diesel will do if you don't have anything else.

Then as Wombat says, cut the pipe close to the union, and work it backwards and forwards before undoing.

Same for the nipple.

If you want to warm it up, flip the rubbers out first, and get the blowlamp to the alloy.


You will likely want to re-use the ends, as Suzuki unions need to be threaded right to the end. The ones that a motor factors use have about 3mm with no thread, and only go in two turns.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 4.611 seconds
Joomla template by a4joomla
We use cookies to give you the best online experience. Please let us know if you agree to all of these cookies. Accepting the Cookies also accepts the Disclaimers for the website.