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Tyre Sizes - Rough Guide Thread

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05 Aug 2025 18:11 - 05 Aug 2025 18:20 #261482 by iac27
Need a recommendation on next steps. I purchased this 2006 Jimmy from Japan and put some bigger tires on it. It was lifted and has 16" rims added to it. I don't know the specs of either. I get rubbing on the front on heavy compressions  and it looks like it's the back front as that's the closest spot. It's a horrible noise but I'm not seeing scuff marks on where I thought it would be. I've installed longer bumps tops hoping to fix the problem but no luck. Other modifications are castor correction which was necessary for highway driving, it would be too twitchy otherwise. The front and rear bumpers are changed as well. The tires are 215/70R16 and they're Toyo Open Country AT3 100T.

Options could be body lift, longer front radius arms or different backspacing? Asking for what would be the ideal attack. I don't want to visually hack up the fenders (I have tried taking a heat gun to the bottom corner a bit to see if I could massage it but no luck).


Here's a few photos
   

2006 JB43 from Japan // 215/70R16 Toyo AT3's with 2" RPG lift // Castor corrected front arms front and bushings back // high clearance plastic bumpers // adjustable panhard bars
Last edit: 05 Aug 2025 18:20 by iac27. Reason: removing dropbox link

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06 Aug 2025 12:39 #261497 by yakuza
Love the wing mirrors and the no rust chassi!

Looks like at least a 2" lift.

Seems like your wheels have too much offset.
Can you find any stamp or marking inside the wheels on this?

215's should fit even if it is a 16 " wheel when the tyre is of a 70 profile (height)
A 215-75-15 will fit nicely with a 0-offset rim and has 380 diameter and the 215-70-16 have a 406 diameter.
with less offset rims they might just clear in the front.

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.
The following user(s) said Thank You: iac27

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06 Aug 2025 14:43 #261500 by iac27
The chasis is in really good condition. I coated it with wax once I got it. There's a rust hole where the jack is stored in the back which I'll have to get fixed but that's all I found.

I'll have a look at the wheels and get back to you. Your build is pretty amazing. I spent 2 weeks exploring the highlands in Iceland in a Duster. That was quite the experience with the river crossings. Some really rugged terrain over there. I get why all the trucks have so much lift and massive tires now!

2006 JB43 from Japan // 215/70R16 Toyo AT3's with 2" RPG lift // Castor corrected front arms front and bushings back // high clearance plastic bumpers // adjustable panhard bars

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07 Aug 2025 04:38 - 07 Aug 2025 04:42 #261515 by iac27
Would castor corrected arms move my wheels away from the back of the arches? Anyone have experience with this? With my high clearance bumpers looks like I have space to move. What would be the drawbacks of doing this besides driveshaft spacers? Getting new rims would be about $800 here plus changing over the tires for another $100-200.   

Here's my current rims:

2006 JB43 from Japan // 215/70R16 Toyo AT3's with 2" RPG lift // Castor corrected front arms front and bushings back // high clearance plastic bumpers // adjustable panhard bars
Last edit: 07 Aug 2025 04:42 by iac27.

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07 Aug 2025 12:51 #261528 by fordem

Would castor corrected arms move my wheels away from the back of the arches?
 

It depends, front or back?

Caster correction on the front axle rolls the axle top-to-back, so it will actually move the wheels closer to the back of the arch, although I'm not certain whether this would be a noticeable amount.  On the rear axle, there is no caster per se, but caster corrected arms will roll the axle top-to-front, so in this case, the movement will be away from the back of the arch.

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07 Aug 2025 23:51 #261534 by iac27
I put castor correction bushings front and back because I didn't like how the springs bowed. This is with factory arms currently.

For the front, my goal would be to move the wheel from the back of the arch. It's just a question of how much will it move it forward. I've seen you could go crazy and get the corrected arms and throw in bushings to shift things a bit more. Ideally, I'd go back with factory bushes. I'm not too excited about pushing bushes in and out repeatedly as I have rubber ones so it takes a little while...

2006 JB43 from Japan // 215/70R16 Toyo AT3's with 2" RPG lift // Castor corrected front arms front and bushings back // high clearance plastic bumpers // adjustable panhard bars

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