Metal to metal adhesive or welding for the boot?

How much of the floor is rusty? Can't be that much is you have fixed it with Gaffer tape! Assuming its just under the jack I don't see why you need to take the fuel tank out...

Do a google search for local mobile welders. I used once to do mine and it cost £70.

Heres alink to some pics

bigjimny.com/index.php/entry/tackling-the-rust-part-two

markyp2000 wrote: Heres alink to some pics

bigjimny.com/index.php/entry/tackling-the-rust-part-two

It does look a bit manky in places but I have seen worse, a lot worse. I work on making sure that load bearing areas are sound such as seat belt mounts and the rest I don't spend too much time on. Fortunately with chassis motors a lot of the panelling is not structurally important. For the rest I'd cut out the cancer to stop it spreading and make good using whatever is at hand. I've even used rivets on some jobs. "Putty and paint makes a carpenter what he ain't".
For £400 I would suggest do like I did back in my youth, get a welder, MIG naturally as they are really easy to use, and get on with DIY. My first job was an Anglia where the rear box section had rotted but sills were a common job. Trust me it isn't the welding that's a pain, it is the fabricating that takes the time. I used to keep old car panels ready to chop up for the steel. :laugh: Incidentally I started welding as such with an arc welder and before that I used a 12v cold soldering gun.

You may be concerned about looks and it does take a bit of practice to get a lovely weld but get a grinder and then you can make the job look tidier. It only needs to be mechanically sound, not pretty. Also you can get a spot welder attachment.

Any rust holes within 30cm (12") of and seat/seat belt mount, body mounts, brake servo, suspension/subframe mounts

Basicly any steering suspension brake body seat & belt mounts and engine mounts ae and should fail an mot so you could say any where on a jimny shell could be an mot failure on rust holes